Brake drum

Does anyone know how to remove the rear brake drum correctly? I think I need to use a puller? I have done Escort ones before but the hijet hub cover is an 'inny' not an 'outy'. On Escort van I used cold chisel and lump hammer.

https://2img.net/h/i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr87/Slicknut/Hijet/DSC00869.jpg

use a dead blow or rubber mallet and work your way around and you should just bounce it off.

If mine is standard, there are two little threaded holes in the drum between the wheel bolts. Put two standard thread bolts in them and tighten each one a bit at a time and the drum will come off.

Thankyou both, its of now, half the battle over.
I found that that the carefull use of the claw part of a hammer is of great use levering over the worn rim of the drum as you gently persude it with your dead blow...

I do hope you have an axle-stand under there somewhere and are not just relying on the scissor jack....?

Blimey I was expecting the "whats a dead blow" question!

Also, to cover the basics, make sure the handbrake is off, and you can turn the drum. If not, you may need to adjust the brake shoes away from the drum (sorry, can't remember if it's a manual adjuster).

Applying heat to the drum around the stud holes may help.

PFM wrote:I do hope you have an axle-stand under there somewhere and are not just relying on the scissor jack....?

Um, Err, no I didn't. I have the loan of trolly a jack now for future operations, and axle stands. In my (flaky) defense I wont get under it like that, and I put the wheel back on overnight.

Actually, now I write this, I remember an incident a few years back where my stepfather was jacking up his Prelude on a grassy area that must have got soft with the rain, the stands promptly sunk into the ground and he only just managed to dodge out of the way.

Axle-stands on grass???

Was it the Prelude in A flat? (sorry, I'll get my coat...)

I had a mk2 escort go over on axle stands on hard packed hardcore type stuff over at my mates we hadstruggled to bash in a large tent peg but one corner of the axle stand sunk and the lot went over as we stood and watched and with no wheels wasn't easy to get back up buggered the axle stand good and proper

The thing is with axle stands, you have 3 pieces of 1/2" or maybe 3/4" angle section each impacting a minimum of 1/12th of the vehicle's weight on a TINY area - far less than that of a a tyre. They have to be on solid ground...or blocks... or the pressure will just force them into the surface - just like a nail or a chisel.

I now use folding axle stands as they have four contact points of at least an inch square which is about the same as a tyre.

hello there does any body know what size bolts are need to remove the drum as i can't persuade the drum off with my hammer or screw drivers


also what type of battery clamp should be fitted as just replaced my battery to find it doesn't have one ????

the little yellow van wrote:hello there does any body know what size bolts are need to remove the drum as i can't persuade the drum off with my hammer or screw drivers


also what type of battery clamp should be fitted as just replaced my battery to find it doesn't have one ????

Don't know about any bolt holes for jacking the drum off with as I haven't looked but the battery clamps are fairly standard round terminal items most car spares should be able to sell you them.

I think he's meaning the securing clamp? If so, it's a standard l shaped shoulder clamp.

thats the one logi i might try a make up something

TBH as a temp fix stuff an old towel down the side of the battery?

Doh! in that case zip ties work wonders through a couple of holes in the bottom.

cheer rich sounds like a good plan just got back from the mot centre my back brakes need replacing and offside cylinder is leaking think i have air in the system too any tips on getting these drums off i tried levering the buggers off with a big flat driver and a hammer

also broke my wing mirror mount does anybody know where i can get a drivers side one

You'll never lever them off in a million years!

Keep in mind this is from memory - about 3 years ago....

Make sure you remover the little retaining screws if it has any. You need a nice sized lump hammer, and you need to clean up the centre hub bit and give them plenty of wd40 to try and break the rust seal. Then you need to find a random bolt with the same tread as hole in between the wheel nut threads.

Then you simply keep hitting the top or side with the lump hammer pretty hard while you turn the drum on the hub. It'll sound like your hitting a bell or something. Don't smack them with all your might, just let the lump hammer do the work, keep hitting them every 45 degrees or so spinning the hub. This breaks some of the rust seal.

Then put your metric threaded bolt into the hole, lightly tighten it up, then keep tinking the drum with your hammer, then put a bit more pressure on with the bolt.... etc etc... Sooner or later it will let go.

I have a spare broken wing mirror with the ball mount etc if you need one.

I also have a spare pair of brake slave cylinders on a van if you need one.

Realistically you going to need to remove a break cylinder you need a brake flexi clamp to stop all the fluid draining out when you remove the wheel cylinder, and afterwards you need to bleed it all.

thanks mate about to grab a pair do you know if the cylinders are cross compatible do you stock spares then im realy in need of a distributor housing for a cb42 mine leaks oil at the head side gonna try a hand made gasket when i get chance how much for the drivers side mirror mount i have fixed it at the mo but only temp

oh i found the bolt size it's 8mm or an M8 bolt works a treat with a little WD40

No I don't really stock parts but I do have one in the garden I bought to get parts off for my other ones.

the little yellow van wrote:thanks mate about to grab a pair do you know if the cylinders are cross compatible do you stock spares then im realy in need of a distributor housing for a cb42 mine leaks oil at the head side gonna try a hand made gasket when i get chance how much for the drivers side mirror mount i have fixed it at the mo but only temp

Ours leaks there as well do watch out the threads do strip out in the head but you can wind a stud in till it bottoms out then use a nut is a little awkward as they have to be a bit long to get the nuts on but it does work.

i will let you know how my gasket goes if it works i'll make a couple up and send you one

Cheers I must say that I have just been lazy I have gasket paper in a couple of thicknesses and I have hylamar blue but it is keeping the rust at bay on the exhaust manifold

yeah there is that