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Cylinder head removed on daihatsu hijet 1997 1.0

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Post by Steve drummer boy Thu Apr 19, 2018 10:17 pm

The photo of the catalog with part number did help me decide the pump I had was the only one you could get using the number to cross reference. Also thanks scotia I did see the links you added and have actually used them to get tightening torques as well so they were very helpful. Eveyone has been very helpful so far. This is why I love forums. There’s always a few gurus on them. I am a manufacture trained technician of 11 years but product knowledge sometimes means more than that. So if I haven’t replied to anyone’s comment exclusively I have certainly read them and they have more than likely helped me.
For anyone interested the engine block actually came up better than the first photos with a little work as well.
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Post by Raggy Sat Apr 21, 2018 8:51 am

Good to see you finding the info helpful and you are progressing. Keep posting the updates.
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Post by Steve drummer boy Sat Apr 21, 2018 4:27 pm

Had a bit of a tinker today got most of it built up now. Started it to make sure it runs then left it at that. One thing I did do is test the cylinder head temp sensor by putting multimeter on it set to ohms. Dropped it in hot water and the ohms dropped down I believe. So happy this is working. Couldn’t seem to get the fan switch to do anything just read open circuit all the time. Problem is I’m struggling finding them online. Found one on eBay but the plug seems to look different. Can anyone help with this. The current one is a valeo with a number stamped 264215 with a working range of 93 to 88. The plug has two terminals. The one I found on eBay seems to have a fully square plug but mine has a curved edge. A 29mm spanner fits it.

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Post by Raggy Sat Apr 21, 2018 7:22 pm

This is what I bought for temp sensor, will have a look for fan temp switch.
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Post by Steve drummer boy Sat Apr 21, 2018 8:13 pm

That’s brilliant. I will replace that anyway even though it’s tested ok just for piece of mind. Just the fan switch to find now. Can’t wait to actually drive the thing only driven it 2 miles when I collected it so far!

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Post by emmabskin Mon Apr 23, 2018 12:25 pm

Hi, I'll check with Jerry see if we've still got a block somewhere if you like?
Emma
Sorry, see you've got past that bit. Good luck.


Last edited by emmabskin on Mon Apr 23, 2018 12:27 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Only read a couple of the posts)
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Post by Raggy Mon Apr 23, 2018 4:29 pm

Dont get rid of the block it come come in handy!
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Post by Steve drummer boy Thu Apr 26, 2018 9:17 pm

Thanks for the offer of the block but like you say it’s a little late now Smile.
Things are going well and so far the head is on, new water pump, new thermostat, new timing belt, new radiator, reconditioned cylinder head, new distributor cap and rotor, new aux belt, new fan switch and painted engine. I am now in the process of bleeding. Now I have read lots of things and tips on here on bleeding. I how ever took a slightly different approach as I have a vacuum bleeder. It sucked all the pipes flat which is a indication it’s worked correctly. How ever the first thing I noticed is the front facing vents I had set when warming up were cold, then I learnt they always will be. So I changed the direction to the windscreen and hot air was present. But at the windscreen when turning it to cold I would expect on any normal car ambient air temp coming through but it was still hot, not as hot as when on full heat but hot. On any other car this would indicate a problem. Is this another hijet querk? The engine temp rose between 1/4 and 1/2. Then fan kicked in and it dropped and did this a few times. So temp wise it seems to be doing what it should be doing.
Any thoughts?

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