Cylinder head removed on daihatsu hijet 1997 1.0

Hi there, my names steve new to the forum. I recently purchased a hijet campervan/day van.
It was purchased as a project and a project it is! First things first once a new radiator was fit it came clear the head gasket was blown. So away I went and removed the cylinder head. The head is now removed and at the machine shop, my current concern is the block. It’s slighlty out when a straight edge is up against it and there seems to be signs of erosion between the water jackets. What’s people’s experience with a reconditioned head on a old block. Anyone else been in this situation and got away with it? A second hand block seems like it isn’t a option as they done seem to be around for these 1.0 3 cylinders.

Please see photos below.

Hi Steve,

->Don't take my word for it, I have no experience with these blocks!<-
I think you're ok since the leak stays on the cooling side, and it won't change the flow.
Is there sufficient support from the cylinder head on those areas?

And maybe this is why the right type of cooling should be used

I was thinking that due to it being between the water jackets I would be ok. What do you mean by sufficient support and right type of cooling system?
I obviously don’t want think to happen again so I have replaced the radiator, thermo stat and water pump. I’m trying to get hold of the fan temp sensor that goes into the bottom of the radiator but struggling finding one. Is there anything else on the cooling side worth changing? I am also thinking about waterless coolant just as a precautionary measure.

you should compare the layout of the holes for the cooling in the cylinder head and in the block. On my Peugeot tu3 engine, the gasket served as a cooling path link between the two.
If that would also be the case on your engine, you'd have nothing to worry about.
There's a few colours of coolant (not cooling, sorry) I don't know what's for what, but I'm guessing yours didn't have the correct one.
From what I've been reading on here, it's also worth checking all of your hoses/lines for blockage

I see what you are saying now. Never thought of that about the gasket. I will have a look at that before building it back up. I’m going through the cooling system with a fine comb to make sure any little bits and bobs are right.

The coolant wants to be the red/pink variety due to the aluminium head. Don’t just use water! Try the water coolant sensor next to the thermostat, there are details in the manual how to test it to see if you need a new one, same with radiator fan switch. Wouldn’t bother with the waterless coolant, just get it sealing right on pipes etc and bleed the air well and you should be Ok. Replace the rad caps (2) FR74 FirstLine but make sure the seats that they seal to are in good condition or you are wasting your time. You can use a tap seat tool to face and clean the seat face for the rad caps...carefully!
Not too sure about the block surface, others with more experience will be able to advise. You may get away with it as the edges where the seal for the cylinders is looks ok on the photos but not sure what effect the erosion between two waterway channels would be.

I have replaced the cap on the radiator and on the engine pipe already. Not sure on the manufacturer of the caps though. But they are same as what I removed with the same specs on the top. 0.9 for the spring loaded pressure release one on the engine bay pipe i believe. Thanks for the tip on the tap seat cutter. I cleaned it up best I could with sand paper but I may try that.

Also where can I find the owners manual. I would like to test both sensors. Am I right in thinking the fan temp switch is a open circuit sensor?

Try Manuals etc Scotia also has a depository of manuals etc but not got the link on my phone.

Hit another problem. My replacement water pump has a straight and smaller pipe outlet than the original daihatsu one. Looking on eBay and such like they all seem to be like this. Is there a modification needed to the pipe does anyone know? I will post photos at dinner

No modifications needed if you get he correct pump as far as I am aware. Not heard of anyone having that issue so far.

I will get photos shortly. The pump it’s self is perfect just the pipe. Tried 3 of my local suppliers all sending the same. Then looked on eBay and they also seem to be the same as I was sent. The van does have the original on so maybe no one has come across it? I’ll post photos to see what you think

if the old pump is still good just use that one.. if heard others say waterpumps dont break.
radcaps, thermostat, headgasket, proper coolant and the correct way of filling it, and bleeding air is more important

If it’s just that one has a bend and the other doesn’t then use the new one, silly to not replace it when you got it stripped this far. Will the original hose not fit due to length or diameter?

Enjoying this topic, been a while since we had one like this. Keep it going

The bearing on mine is rough and noisy on rotation so I would prefer to change it. Just a case of finding the right one or a modification that works. Gave it a bit of paint while it was in bits though so at least the engines shiney even if it doesn’t run :p

Looking good, would love to that with mine but while it’s running sweetly I will leave well alone apart from general maintainance.

Raggy wrote:If it’s just that one has a bend and the other doesn’t then use the new one, silly to not replace it when you got it stripped this far. Will the original hose not fit due to length or diameter?

The pipe it’s self is a smaller diameter that’s the issue. If it was the same diameter I could easy sort it.
Haha I will keep the post going. May even do a walk through for the head once I have finished it if there is a cause for it.
Any help on the water pump front or research from anyone will be appreciated! It’s doing my nut in.

So one thing I have found so far is the pump that’s listed for mine that I have on the online catalog shows it being for a cb41 engine. When reading the manuals under head gasket section I learnt there are two different engines with different compression ratios. Ones a cb41 and ones a cb42. My old head gasket indicates mine is a cb42 as it has no holes stamped in the top left. This could be my issue. The next thing is how do I find a water pump for a cb42 when all they will go off is my reg. does anyone has a van with a cb42 engine to try there reg and see if it lists a different part number?  Many thanks in advance.

If anyone wants to know what engine is there’s if you look from the passenger side door at the top left part of the head gasket that sticks out it will have 2 holes for cb41 or none for cb42 unless the thicker gasket has been fit which is the for the cb41. If this is the case on the top of the cylinder head also on the left but the bottom it is stamped on. Not sure if it’s under the rocker cover or not though.

Hope these may help, they are from the S85 parts microfiche. You can find it think in Scotia store of files.

That may help me with the part supplier if they can cross reference the numbers. This has also got me thinking if I could take the internals out the new one and fit them in the old housing as it’s seems you could get all the bearings and shaft separate

My 1995 van had a CB42 engine so I'm surprised the catalogues think you have a CB41 which, IIRC, was the carb version rather than EFI.

I've got a reg No. you can use Steve if you pm me.

Isnt it on the engine or registration plate on the van?

Steve. Every 993cc I have stripped - and that is a lot I have had, all had the straight metal bypass pipe. Why are you worrying about the bit of bent pipe on your old pump.
As far as I can see the new pump fits exactly the same way as your old one, am I correct or have I missed something in all of the dialogue somewhere??
Just put a new length of Neoprene hose and two new jubilee clips and that is the job done surely. Keep things simple son. Hi-Jets can be complicated enough. It is a shame yours is a 993cc as I have several 1300 engines, but no 993cc any more.

Just gone back through your War and Peace. Just put a sleeve of plastic pipe heated up and pushed on and then use the correct size hose is how I would get around the bypass pipe size problem Steve.

Raggy wrote:Hope these may help, they are from the S85 parts microfiche. You can find it think in Scotia store of files.

yeah i posted the link but no reaction

Easy one to miss in all the files though Scotia, that’s why I posted up the specific pages for him. A good file that one for getting part numbers, used it to find correct water temp sensor and find out how some bits go together. Keep meaning to look again at your store to see if I missed anything. I have manuals for suspension and steering online if you want to add them to the store. Think I put a link in the Manuals section to download them. LINKY

The problem I had woodie was not the bend. It was the diameter. The original pump outlet was huge in comparison. I have how ever sorted it. The pipe it goes to on the inlet manifold has a metal reducer but on the actual inlet manifold it’s same size as the new pipe. I did away with the metal reducer and used one fixed length of 1/4” rubber fuel hose.
Please see photos to see what I mean.


As you can see the size of the metal pipe is the same size as the Outer diameter of the rubber fuel hose I have used that fits the new water pump perfectly. Hope this clears up my problem. The pipe being straight was no issue for me.