Questions...

You helped me too because we fixed our van together albeit 100 miles apart

It was a big help towards think about the whole process too by the messages forwards and backwards. Writing stuff out makes you think a bit clearer.

Ok, just tried bleeding the system, but I don't think I did it right because it's still hunting. How the hell do I fix this problem, it's really getting on my wick.

Yea Daisy, I have 2 993's. All I do is as per the instructions: turn heater control to hot, remove both caps and rubber bleed cap, fill untill water overflows from engine cap, fit engine (sprung) cap, continue filling until rad is full, replace rad (flat) cap and rubber cap. Job done, top up a little while later. I do make sure I'm on a slight slope so front a bit higher than rear though.

Just a quickie PFM, when you refill, do you have the engine running?

Not usually, but have done on occasion. No real evidence, but a fanciful notion that the vibration might help shake some air out. I've done this more at the first stage of filling, with the engine cap off. Squeezing the adjacent hose can cause some bubbles too.

Now, I gather I'm not the only one with an instrument panel with flaking paint, or at least I hope I'm not. Is there a way to preserve the paint work so nothing more flakes off, or can I get it repainted, or replace it with something else? Otherwise I'm going to be guessing my speed pretty soon.

If you ask rich nicely he can print you some new panel backs

Ooh, that would be good. I'll have to talk cost with him.

Another thing. My back door doesn't stay up any more, I've currently got a broomstick wedged to keep it up, but it's a bit annoying. I'm panelling my van atm, and I put a piece of paperboard lined with carpet where the old door card would have gone. Is it possible this is too heavy for the supports? If so, is there a way to 'beef up' the system?

Little Black Van wrote:I've currently got a broomstick

That's a risky thing to say on here! I'm too much of a gentleman though....

Easy way to prove if it's the carpet or weak struts - take the carpet panel off and see if it stays up. I'm sure HJ could supply you with a pair if needed. It is possible that stronger-rated struts fitted to other vehicles might fit, but finding which are stronger and of the correct length would be time-consuming methinks.

I really should stop asking the main dealer for prices on parts, £215.82 inc. VAT for a piddling little lambda sensor! I ask this because driving back from Dartmoor my engine light flashed on for a moment then went off, so I pulled over and connected the diagnostic pins and it gave me code 21, lambda sensor circuit open or shorted. Hopefully it's just a loose connection and a bit of wiggling and tightening of bolts should solve it, but if not, can I get this part new third party for a reasonable price, or is it worth taking one from a wreck?

Nahh only ever fit new lambda sensors as they are fragile after they have been used for a few years.

From memory they use a single wire lambda sensor like this one for a terios http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lambda-Sensor-Oxygen-Sensor-Daihatsu-Terios-ADD67006-/310518502660?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3ADaihatsu&hash=item484c585504

It should be about £50 in a motor factors.

Plus I try to buy denso lambda sensors as I've had most of the cheap copy unbranded ones fail within 12 months.

Yeah it's single wire, is the thread size standard, or just specific to the hijet? And is the sensor the same for the 1.0 and the 1.3?

The rattle from my engine is getting more noticeable now, I think it's tappets, can these be reconned or adjusted, or do they have to be replaced?

Yes they are adjustable on the 1.0 with a flat blade screw driver and a ring spanner. You'll need some feeler gauges too.

Just take all the engine covers off, then the rocker cover, and get the spark plugs out - then go for it.

Had a look, can't find it here, what's the unladen weight of a Hijet? I'm guessing 3/4 tonne?

Ok, Straight From my Original Daihatsu brochure collection :-

1.3 MPV
kerb weight 915kg
GVW 1550kg
Max towing capacity 600kg

1.3 Panel Van
Kerb weight 915kg
GVW 1550kg
Max towing capacity 635kg

1.3 Pickup
Kerb weight 790kg
GVW 1550kg

993cc van
kerb weight 875kg
GVW 1550kg

993cc pickup
kerb weight 775kg
GVW 1550kg

1.2 diesel van
kerb weight 900kg
GVW 1550kg

1.2 diesel pickup
kerb weight 795kg
GVW 1550kg


Now I know for a fact these mpv/van numbers contain an error because an MPV is heavier than a panel van - obviously as it has extra seats, carpets, belts, windows, winders, and sunroofs... oh and a radio and speakers!

Brilliant. My VIN plate also shows a figure that says 2.1 approx. Haven't got the van with me right now. Would this be the train weight?

Sounds about right, might have to look at my VIN plate a little closer.

Driving a hijet train weighing in at 2.1 metric tonnes would be some hairy scary business!

Methinks I should replace my front brakes before attempting something like that... Still, perfectly possible, I'm looking into purchasing a couple of small marquees to hire, so looking at the maximum my faithful steed can cope with. Just went from West Wales to Exeter with a vanful of my dad's tools in it, which I reckon took it to its GVW or close, and it handles quite nicely, if a little more sluggish on the acceleration. Driving it across town with nothing in it afterwards was very weird, kept jumping forwards from junctions, being a touch too heavy on the gas.

Btw, that list would be a good thing to put on the site, since the VIN plate doesn't give you the kerb weight.

I drove back from Hungary with the van full of furniture. Van handled very well and still returned 38 MPG