Questions...

You have a 993cc efi if I remember then you need to remove the cover behind the front seats so you can get to the distributer then with a warm engine get a helper to run the engine and rev it so it is just above a fast idle and hold the throttle there then loosen the bolt retaining the dizzy and SLOWLY adjust the top section back and forth untill you get the highest engine speed and then lock it back on in that spot no need for a timing light which is a bastard to see in the jet as the cross member is very nearly in the way and you only have a inch and a half square hole to see through and point the light through I have two different strobe lights with different pick ups and both very rarely come out.

While you are there take the cap off and check it over inside and out for mositure and cracks etc.

Another one today, after putting some petrol in, where I had to take the hose across the windscreen to get to the fuel filler, my fuel guage has suddenly started wobbling an awful lot, whereas before it was solid as a rock. It happens whenever there is motion, if I have the ignition on but not the engine, it is fine, but if I rock the van about it wobbles, and when I fire up the engine it wobbles somewhat as well. But when I move off it wobbles loads. I know certain vehicles are known for terminally wobbly fuel guages, but I am most annoyed because this never happened before. The temperature guage also wobbles to some degree as well, when it never used to, so I'm thinking dodgy earth as opposed to something to do with the fuel sensor?

Having just paid through the nose for my dizzy cap, does anyone know if there is a practical difference between the CB41 and 42 caps and rotor arms? If there isn't, It would mean I could buy the much cheaper CB41 parts next time, because £35 for a dizzy cap is somewhat overpriced IMO.

Also, where be the windscreen washer pump? It's stopped working and I want to look at it to see why, what with my MOT looming in less than a month and all.

So the pumps are in the bottle under the passenger seat! Might be the switch though, maybe do a little testing, see if the power is getting to the pump when you press the button etc......

Good luck

Hmm, doesn't look promising for the rotor arms, but would the cap at least fit do you reckon? Or not?

In my opinion dizzy cap, rotor arm and plugs want changing at least every 50k to get the best fuel economy, torque, cold starting etc.

I doubt it'll fit, but it might, and you'd have to change both the arm and cap as they tend to be make for each other. You may find one from a cuore or a charade might fit though.

More reasons to own a 1.3 efi hijet... no dizzy, just a pair of wasted spark multi coils.

When my current Hijet eventually bites the dust, I'll likely replace it with a 1.3, but I'd like to take the front end off the 1.0 one and swap them over, I'm not too keen on the new headlamp style. Sounds silly I know, but there we are. How rare are the diesel ones? And are they significantly more economical than the petrols?

So, washer pump still works, just has a slightly dodgy connection, need to keep an eye on that. Beyond the obvious, is there anything else I should look out for for the MOT? Going to inspect wheel arches for rust today, anywhere else that is prone? One that I'm fairly sure is going to fail is that cat, but due to budget constraints, I won't replace it until the MOT man says I need to.

Urgh, not having much luck getting a fuel filter for my van, ordered from japarts, and the first one that came was the wrong one, had a screw fitting both ends. Then the replacement they sent was also wrong, it had a pipe at each end for rubber hose, and all this despite the fact that their picture on ebay showed a filter with a pipe at one end, and a screw fit at the other. Just looked on eurocarparts, and they have one for my van, but it also appears to have the wrong fittings. Is it possible to find one with the right fittings? Or should I just bodge on the one I have now?

I'd just fit one that has barbed ends on both sides for rubber hose and jublee clip the bastard on.

Hey if you think getting parts is hard, feel sorry the the diesel model owners!

They rot under the front where there is a seam under the front wheel arches, then right down at the front where the foot wells are, and they go under the seat/bonnets - right down at the bottom of the van where you can see tarmac in the corner. Along with everywhere else!

Well, rot wise, not too bad as far as I can tell. Only one back wheel arch is bad, and none of it is structural.

Here's one, I have a bracket of some kind that I can't identify, definitely came off my van though as it's green, along with my hinges. (I have no idea why). Here's a picture, what is it and where does it go?

Bumper mount that goes near the hinges behind the doors.

The nipple thing is like a "rawl plug" that has a screw in it that holds the bumper in place.

Thanks HJ, I'll fit that back on tomorrow then.

Here's another one for ya, I've just replaced my thermostat, and lo and behold, the engine gets up to temp a lot quicker and the heating actually works before the next century has been and gone. When I got my van, the radiator fan had a manual switch to turn the fan on, presumably as a workaround to the fact that the engine was overheating. Since I've replaced the thermostat and the old one was definitely dead, can anyone tell me what the circuit involving the rad fan should have? Looking at the wiring diagram, it still goes to a switch, but I assume it's thermostatically controlled or similar. I'd like to put the system back to how it was, which would at least let me find out if the thermostat was the problem.

Yes there is a thermo switch in the coolant pipe at the bottom of the bend under the passenger seat engine access panel.

There is a guy on ebay selling new non daihatsu ones on ebay here :-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Daihatsu-Commercial-Hijet-radiator-fan-switch-Intermotor-50374-83430-87515-/320995191952?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4abccdec90

The one you have on your van probably works though, just some people try and fix symptoms without understanding the cause. If the thermostat is closed, the fan sensor never gets hot so it doesn't kick in. Some people think putting a switch on the fan is some kind of solution?!

How come you changed your thermostat? Was there non in there? Or was it a sticking open and closed knackard one?

I decided to inspect and test it, and when I dangled it in boiling water, it didn't respond to the temperature at all, plus the rubber seals were all breaking away. So it seemed to be stuck shut, and thus the fan wouldn't kick in without the switch.

Right, been attempting to trace the wiring of the radiator fan, and I can see the bodge the previous owner did, but no trace of the original wiring. I can't see where the fan switch is either, it's not visible from where you claim it is HJ, just to check, are you thinking of the 1.3 or the 1.0? I have the latter.

I'm thinking 1.3 sorry.

Rich will be able to help you i'm sure

That would make sense, since the bodge is right next to the rad. I'll have another look tomorrow, though it did look like the wires coming from there led somewhere, but they may just be tucked out of the way. While I was searching, I looked around the thermostat housing and found what I thought may be the switch, but is probably a sensor due to only having one wire. Would this be the temp sensor for the temp guage?

Now, having looked at what I think is the rad fan switch, it has wires that go into a bigger cluster of wires, which then disappears up behind the dashboard, and the entire length of this cluster up until the interior is masterfully wrapped in insulation tape. Are these wires meant to go into this cluster, or have they just been taped out of the way? I'm unwilling to go hacking at the tape and risk cutting wires (it's in a bit of an awkward place) without knowing what those two wires are.

Little Black Van wrote:That would make sense, since the bodge is right next to the rad. I'll have another look tomorrow, though it did look like the wires coming from there led somewhere, but they may just be tucked out of the way. While I was searching, I looked around the thermostat housing and found what I thought may be the switch, but is probably a sensor due to only having one wire. Would this be the temp sensor for the temp guage?

The temp sensor is one wire under the dizzy in the back of the head not far from the stat, the fan switch is in the back of the rad drivers side can't remember the size but it's about a 30mm AF brass hex with a black plastic bit sticking out and it is the same type of connector as the one that plugs into the fan.



Best pic I have this is looking from the top with the front of the rad down.

Yep, got that, it has two wires coming from it that disappear into this cluster though. Should they do that, and if so, where do they come out? Because the wires from the fan are literally right next to the switch, but cut and twisted to two new wires which lead to the manual switch and an earth point on the chassis.

I think a copy of the wiring diagram with the colours marked and a work out whats been added, on ours I spliced into the wires and added a relay so I could run smaller wires and a small switch back into the dash as I hadn't heard the fan come on ever and was too skint to get another at the time it has since been replaced as I got a spare in with the second hand rad I got, I think that the two wires for the rad switch are both brown but don't hold me to it.

Ok, so should I just take the wires from the rad fan and connect them to the wires from the switch, without bothering to find out where they go?

with the ignition on and your fingers clear if you short out the wires the fan should come on and you can either run the van temp up and check the switch goes short with a multi meter or take it out and hang it in a pan of boiling water and do the same test. then if that works then yes hook it up.

Ok, shorted the wires from the fan and nothing happened, not surprising since no power supply was involved. I still can't work out the wiring, the wires going to the rad fan switch have power going to them when the ignition is on, but they disappear up behind the dashboard, and I would like to avoid pulling off the dashboard again if possible.




As you can see, the wires from the switch go up into the cab, and they are connected and have power, but I have no idea where they go. I would assume that there should be somewhere the fan wires connect, since this is a bodge and not original. Any ideas?