Engine Light

Thanks Woodie I'll order a pair next week when my pension increases the bank account. I was doing OK on ebay / paypal until a scam merchant called Yates pulled a stroke that has really hurt.
Jon

Woodie - more and more mysterious been underneath checked visually and using my hand only one sensor in the exhaust - just in front of the joining flange - 4 wires 1 blue, 1 white black and 2 black

I cannot get a decent focus on the OBD under the dash - but this service information sticker is on the passenger door - maybe the truck was originally a council owned truck factory colour white it was sprayed an orange colour

Well that has saved you 50% with only the Manifold Lamda to replace - if it comes out. Try it with the engine cold first.

Failing that take it for 5 miles drive and then have a go at getting it out with a ring spanner as you can get a spanner over the connection - you can't with a socket without chopping the wires off, and if you do that and can't get the beggar out of the Manifold.

Woodie wrote:Well that has saved you 50% with only the Manifold Lamda to replace - if it comes out. Try it with the engine cold first.

Failing that take it for 5 miles drive and then have a go at getting it out with a ring spanner as you can get a spanner over the connection - you can't with a socket without chopping the wires off, and if you do that and can't get the beggar out of the Manifold.

Is it worth using a BlowTorch - meanwhile awaiting its arrival I will repeatedly apply WD40. Thank you for all your help.
Tomorrow changing the clutch.
Jon

I doubt if WD4O will do anything at all - except smoke like heck until it burns off the outside of the Manifold. A decent blowtorch applied around the Sensor - not on it, will often help.

Once you heat it, douse it in cold water, the thermic shock will help loosen it.

Logi wrote:Once you heat it, douse it in cold water, the thermic shock will help loosen it.

Logi thanks for that tip - my only thought might it crack the manifold casting - the sensor is in nthe manifold just by the flange.
Jon

Logi wrote:Once you heat it, douse it in cold water, the thermic shock will help loosen it.

Logi thanks for that tip - my only thought might it crack the manifold casting - the sensor is in nthe manifold just by the flange.
Jon

Not unless your name is Tarzan or my nickname - The Incredible Hulk. I have never broken the exhaust manifold before but you have to be a little sensible with the Lamda.
Ideally you need a really decent Blowtorch - a proper Plumber's one. A Rothenberger is one of the best. I have two of them for extreme problems.
And definitely use Logi's idea as well. A well soaked wet Rag on the Lamda.

Yesterday went under the van checking the gearbox mount bolt. Looked from a different angle - Lo and Behold I found the second Oxygen Sensor, Apologies to anyone I have mislead.
Jon

Hi all - after lots of faffing around I eventually replaced the sensor. According to the OBD reader the fault is cured - off out for a run to proove this correct.
Weird thing we disconnected the old sensor - started the engine - it ran and revved up - I had thought it would go into limp mode!
But then it seems to be a wierd van 2001 Y reg and an OBD socket all connected.
Jon

Hello am new to forum but forgive me if posted in wrong area.
I have a problem with my 1.0 efi as it won't start but turns over, I have just fitted a new rad due to old one being shot by pea shingle off of a lorry on motorway, and while I was filling and bleeding the cooling system to release trapped air the bone shaker as I affectionately call her cut out and won't start, she turns over but does not fire, I have noticed the engine light is on but no obd plug as she is a 97 model with only 40,000 genuine miles on the clock, have checked usual fuses etc but nothing apparent but what confuses me is she was running then cut out and now won't start can anyone shine some light on the matter please?
Thanks
Les

Firstly, welcome to the mad world of hijets. Secondly be better if you stared a new thread in the general or workshop sections. Thirdly (I do ramble on at times!) check the two small wires on the +ve terminal of the battery, they can corrode/ break and also the connector they go to underneath outside the battery box. They give those symptoms, I have fallen foul of it twice! They provide power to the ECU so you will get it to turn over etc just no spark.

Thanks for your reply, I will now have a look for the wires you have pin pointed and see if that's the issue, i hope it's the case.
I will let you know what I find and whether it sorts the issue.
Thanks once again for your help.
Les

Hi Les, let’s hope it does. Add your location to your forum profile and I would advise you change your forum name from your email address unless you want lots of spam emails coming through.

Hi again thanks for advice will do finally sorted the issue It was not the wires near the battery it turns out that a short in the cooling fan kept blowing the 20amp engine fuse in the fuse box under the steering wheel every time the fan went to kick in have had the fan motor apart and dried it out and sprayed it with wd40 as some how water had got into fan motors casing that could of been steam from rad when it got holed hence the short all good now though amazed that since new rad and flushing temp does not even get half way she now runs really cool and as sweet as a toffee apple.

Excellent result

Buller68 wrote:Hi again thanks for advice will do finally sorted the issue It was not the wires near the battery it turns out that a short in the cooling fan kept blowing the 20amp engine fuse in the fuse box under the steering wheel every time the fan went to kick in have had the fan motor apart and dried it out and sprayed it with wd40 as some how water had got into fan motors casing that could of been steam from rad when it got holed hence the short all good now though amazed that since new rad and flushing temp does not even get half way she now runs really cool and as sweet as a toffee apple.

-

A week ago Saturday I had the same fuse blow - so I fitted another a 25 amp (whats 5 amps between friends) - I had already had fan problems and fitted an over-ride switch - Suddenly smoke everywhere - burnt main loom - according to the guy who rewired the loom, the problem started with chaffing where the loom crosses the Cross Member he thought the earth return wire went first - components then attempted to earth through other components.

fter the rewire the van is running fine - but the EML is on although the OBD reader shows no faults, CONFUSING
Jon