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Engine Warning light on!

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Engine Warning light on! Empty Engine Warning light on!

Post by raydreadz Tue Nov 12, 2013 1:13 pm

Started up 1st time after new head gasket, running sweet if a little faster on idle.... Orange engine light is permanently on. I've checked up in Hjs info for the codes etc & I've been cricking my neck for a while now looking for the sensor plug. The nearest I can see is this one ...

Engine Warning light on! Sensor10

But it's only got 2 wires red/yellow & black/yellow. It was tucked up high, above & behind the fuse block next to the big blue connector.
Are there variations & could this be the one? Meanwhile I'll keep looking.
I wonder if the light might go out after the oils burnt out from the initial fill up. Unfortunately I've got to wait a while before running again cos the water union blew out after 5 mins of running so I've resealed it with loctite blue lock & seal & should probably wait until tomorrow for it to set before running again.
Dead chuffed how sweet it runs & that I haven't wrecked anything yet:D 
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Post by HighlyJetted Tue Nov 12, 2013 2:56 pm

What year is your van?
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Post by raydreadz Tue Nov 12, 2013 3:07 pm

2001 1.3
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Post by Logi Tue Nov 12, 2013 4:13 pm

OBD plug is under drivers side right of the dashboard.
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Post by raydreadz Tue Nov 12, 2013 4:17 pm

ah, I was hoping to get the flash codes... so I need to take it somewhere for diagnostics?
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Post by HighlyJetted Tue Nov 12, 2013 4:42 pm

Just buy a £20 scanner
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Post by raydreadz Tue Nov 12, 2013 5:27 pm

Ok thanks chaps!
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Post by HighlyJetted Tue Nov 12, 2013 5:39 pm

My favourite bargain scanner is this one as it does live data feeds, so you can actually see the sensors working.

You'll use an obd2 scanner over and over again once you own one. My mates are always bringing cars round to use my scanner.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vgate-Scan-VS600-Universal-OBD2-EOBD-CAN-BUS-Fault-Code-scanner-Diagnostic-/320911369487?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4ab7cee50f
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Post by raydreadz Wed Nov 13, 2013 10:55 am

I wrestled with that choice for a while, the missus said " i thought you said you could do it cheaper than a garage!" the spend is spiralling a bit but bugger it, I've ordered the VS600.
cheers 
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Post by HighlyJetted Wed Nov 13, 2013 11:42 am

Garages charge about £50 for one scan, and then they don't know what it really means!

I love the "just take it to a garage" approach. If only I could actually find a good mechanic to send people too!
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Post by Logi Wed Nov 13, 2013 12:22 pm

And pound to a penny you'll be back here asking about the code it throws up.


Which will be the same code the 9 quid one would give you....... Razz
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Post by HighlyJetted Wed Nov 13, 2013 1:19 pm

Ahhh but the live data scanner is a better investment in the long run and it has a data base of codes built into it so it will tell you the meaning of the code on the screen.
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Post by Logi Wed Nov 13, 2013 2:27 pm

Yeah, but its not hard to look up the code in the wee book that comes with the other (3 times cheaper) one Wink
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Post by HighlyJetted Wed Nov 13, 2013 2:36 pm

I had a civic a while back that had no error codes but ran crap... Turned out the GPS sensor inside was jammed at part throttle. No error code given because the sensor is still giving a reading. Live data let's you press the throttle and watch the reading change. Same goes for all the sensors.... Drive along and see the speed sensor work, which is handy for hijets which are prone to gas speed sensor errors and other mishaps!
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Post by raydreadz Wed Nov 13, 2013 10:28 pm

As luck would have it, I topped up this morning & turned on & ... no warning light Laughing 
I'd already ordered the scanner, sods law.

Probably won't be long before you're right Logi Embarassed 

Gave it a gentle run & early signs are good, idle settled down to normal, steady climb in temp & all pipes warm & under pressure, fan kicked in on tick over & later after a short steady drive it had drawn coolant from the top up reservoir (it's never done that before!)
Some of the new jubilee clips needed a tighten & it still dripping from the head/coolant union.
Finding the right bonding gear for it is a bit of a palava. The manual says Three Bond 1377b, the Loctite equivilent is Thixotropic 648 (121078) £35+vat for a wee bottle... f*** that. So I'm trying a Ford silicone based liquid gasket a geezer gave me from the local garage & just to make sure it doesn't blow off I've clamped a steel plate over it & bolted it down while it sets.

Should be ready for a long road test tomorrow.



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Post by HighlyJetted Wed Nov 13, 2013 10:39 pm

Use some epoxy if it fails to seal, I like that black leakstop oil proof epoxy.
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Post by raydreadz Thu Nov 21, 2013 10:52 am

I've been postponing the party celebrating the fact that the overheating issue is solved as the old darlin isn't running totally sweet yet.
No overheating & fans kicking in whenever it needs to. Still a little weeping from the new rad & new cap (notice it as it cools down). Losing an egg cup full on most journeys.

What's prompted me to post is the engine light is back on this morning.
I plugged in the scanner & it gives me this info.

P0130
02 sensor circuit
Bank 1
Sensor 1

I've looked up the codes on HJs info page ... 13-Rev signal-Crank position sensor fault

I'm sure Logi must be giggling by now, any idea what this means?

Cheers,
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Post by Logi Thu Nov 21, 2013 11:04 am

Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha
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Post by Logi Thu Nov 21, 2013 11:06 am

Oh and was the battery flat? Sometimes shows cps cos of that. HJ will be along shortly
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Post by raydreadz Thu Nov 21, 2013 11:37 am

Hehe.. I knew that would amuse you.

Battery is good I'm sure, I've been running around with it for a few days with no warning light, only today did the light come on
Also to add, it's been running really smooth once warm, but on cold start the idle is high revving & a bit whiny & for longer than I'd expect.

Temp gauge sits a little low half way between cold & middle unless I tackle a few hills or sit in traffic for a while. So there's a lot of temp variation... I dunno if that's normal for an older Hijet. Would have been nice to see it settle in the middle for a change:lol:


Last edited by raydreadz on Thu Nov 21, 2013 11:40 am; edited 2 times in total (Reason for editing : missed a bit.)
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Post by HighlyJetted Thu Nov 21, 2013 11:53 am

Your getting wires twisted so to speak!!...

That list of code on the website is for pre ODB2 cars.

The ones after the change over the ODB2 use a different list of errors

P0130 is a standard ODB2 error code, which means Oxygen Sensor error. Just as your scanner has told you.

Now what you should do, is plug the scanner in, connect it up with the engine running, then go to the live data page, then select S1B1 O2 sensor, and watch the graph of the output signal while you go for a drive, sometimes it can take upto a few minutes of proper driving to warm the sensor up to get a proper reading from it.

You should get a nice graph that bounces up and down from about 0.3 to 0.7.

If the graph flat lines, or just post a picture of the graph up here and I will tell you if it is normal.
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Post by raydreadz Thu Nov 21, 2013 12:14 pm

Managed to find a pc in the house that can read the mini disc, so I'm reading through the blurb on the codes now. Should be able to send them to my mac later.

Could well be the piped return thingy on the EGR then? one of the bolts sheared when I took it off & haven't got round to drilling it out yet. Probably do with new gaskets on it too.

I'll plug in the scanner & take it for a spin in a bit, cheers Hj


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Post by Logi Thu Nov 21, 2013 12:25 pm

Is there a thermostat fitted? Cos it sounds like its missing?
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Post by raydreadz Thu Nov 21, 2013 1:03 pm

Logi wrote:Is there a thermostat fitted? Cos it sounds like its missing?
New thermostat, but I did drill a couple of 2mm holes at the top cos the little bypass valve was facing wrong way (in my understanding) i.e. shutting off as water is trying to leave the engine so there was a chance of air locking behind perhaps one hole would've been better.
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Post by HighlyJetted Thu Nov 21, 2013 2:09 pm

raydreadz wrote:Managed to find a pc in the house that can read the mini disc, so I'm reading through the blurb on the codes now. Should be able to send them to my mac later.

What do you need the computer for?!

Just plug the scanner into the van and stream the live data onto the screen of the scanner.
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Post by raydreadz Thu Nov 21, 2013 2:34 pm

The mini disc has the explanations to the codes....

Gave it a road test... eng warn light went off by itself on start up.

Doesn't give the option to record data 'G' but I could watch the graph as I drove.

It read:
0.11 - 0.84 ish...on tick over

0.02 - 0.93...
0.15 - 0.84... tootlin about
0.00 - 0.89... foot off the gas it would flat line for a 10 secs or so.
0.23 - 0.79... briefly on steady acceleration up to 60mph
0.12 - 0.82 ish ticking over after run

Make any sense?

Reading the code diagnosis it could be a leaky gasket from manifold to exhaust pipe.
It was smoking a lot out of there when I 1st started up after the head gasket. I thought it might have sealed itself as it's on sprung bolts but one of the bolts was a bit shagged so it's not a tight as it could be. Spose I should look out for a new bolt & fresh exhaust pipe 'wire ring' gasket.

I'll swap over the thermostat too to see if that changes the temp fluctuations... I've got another 2 that test ok on the stove.
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Post by waz Thu Nov 21, 2013 5:02 pm

Hi, with reference to your needle position mine always sat at the 3/4 point and I never had a problem.
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Post by HighlyJetted Thu Nov 21, 2013 6:39 pm

Any leak in the pre lambda sensor exhaust system will throw the o2 readings out big time.

So it could be that EGR valve.

Check on the live data that your TPS sensor and MAP sensor and IAT sensors are all working.
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Post by raydreadz Thu Nov 21, 2013 9:53 pm

waz wrote:Hi, with reference to your needle position mine always sat at the 3/4 point and I never had a problem.
Thanks, good to have a reality check on how others are behaving. I'm gonna switch the thermostat & see how it goes.
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