Shear hell! How to deal with snapped bolts?

In the process of removing my air filter housing I removed the plastic guard from underneath but have sheared all three bolts holding it on.
I sprayed them with WD and was very gentle but they just snapped anyway.

I've never had this problem before and wonder what the best way of removing the sheared bolt from the hole is?

It will be near impossible if they are rusted in, i would drill them out and retap them

best way is use a stud extractor with loads of heat here is a link t a cheap set on ebay

stud extractor

Ive given up with easy out stud extractors, worst case is you snap them in them in situe and they are a bitch to drill out.

I just drill out snapped bolts the helicoil down to the original size.

Originally I thought it was because I was using cheap easy outs, so I bought some expensive ones but they were no better.

Easy outs are only any good if the sheared bit of the pin is free in my experience, even then i use a hammer and centre punch.

FrontBackSide2Side wrote:Easy outs are only any good if the sheared bit of the pin is free in my experience, even then i use a hammer and centre punch.

^^^^^^ THIS

They only work if the bolt is slack, whereas then if it was slack you wouldn't snap the bugger in the first place!

They turn the stuck bit of stud into more like a rawlplug at the easy out expands the drilled out tube more and more as you put force onto it only making it bind harder.

Very true!

A portable mini welding kit is a lifesaver, wee ones with Mapp gas are available for around the hundred quid mark, not much use for welding really but as a heat source it'll save you from loads of hassle.

I love my turbo torch with a bottle of MAPP gas.

It is loads hotter than propane or butane, and the turbo torch flame shape is really focused and intense.

HighlyJetted wrote:I love my turbo torch with a bottle of MAPP gas.

It is loads hotter than propane or butane, and the turbo torch flame shape is really focused and intense.

its what i use^^^^

easy outs can break if you put too much force on them, the trick is plenty of heat and just feel it, i have had mine years and never had a problem, i have even removed sheared wheel studs with them

Another method is too weld a nut onto the remains of the stud.

Can be used with a protruding stud or if its been snapped flush.

The heat from the weldor free's it up and you have a nut to use a spanner socket set rather than swearing with easy outs, drill, mole grips etc.

Doesnt work in all scenarios but another excellent method, saved me many hours over the years.

Tried extractors. Naff. Bolts were like the had been welded in and weren't budging although I did manage to get the extractors out.
I ended up drilling straight through in increasing sizes of bit and fitting new bolts through the hole and fixing with nuts underneath.

Took bloody ages though!