Camper conversion
+8
FrontBackSide2Side
craig2859
mikehn
ToaseMan
Logi
HighlyJetted
jamesstanley
singledad
12 posters
Page 3 of 3
Page 3 of 3 • 1, 2, 3
Re: Camper conversion
Cheers Woody
The blinds sound like a good idea but I dont know if I can work them in at this stage, the clearance is really tight at the back door and at the off side side door where I have the gas rings. I will have a look in the morning light and get back to you.
The blinds sound like a good idea but I dont know if I can work them in at this stage, the clearance is really tight at the back door and at the off side side door where I have the gas rings. I will have a look in the morning light and get back to you.
mikehn- Clubman
- Posts : 27
Join date : 2013-12-07
Re: Camper conversion
OK Mike. I will take piccies and measurements -- I think I have two sizes of frames and have them ready to send if you want to have a look anyway. My email is hi.jetmaniow@gmail.com
Guest- Guest
Re: Camper conversion
i slide the curtans from the front to the door piller and use tie backs and the matreial sits between door piler and the side of the front seats, then the same just behind side door and two on rear window. cheap but worrks although i might use the proper hooks to hold them back later these you can get from caravan supplys
singledad- Centurion
- Posts : 230
Join date : 2013-06-25
Location : sussex
Re: Camper conversion
Nothing to contribute as due to circumstances beyond my control work on the Jetty conversion has been suspended for a while. However the following gave me a laugh so I thought I'd share it
TOOLS EXPLAINED
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.
WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh*t!'
ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.
SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.
BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
MOLE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for setting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub from which you are trying to remove a bearing race.
TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing a walls integrity.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground, after you have installed your new brake shoes, and trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.
BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut perfectly good aluminum sheet metal into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and also for butchering your palms.
PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER: A tool used primarily for making hoses too short.
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate those more expensive parts that are immediately adjacent to the object we are actually trying to hit.
UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on their contents, such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund cheques, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while being worn.
F*CK-IT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'F*CK-IT' at the top of your lungs. It is also most often, the next tool that you will need.
TOOLS EXPLAINED
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.
WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh*t!'
ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.
SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.
BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
MOLE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for setting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub from which you are trying to remove a bearing race.
TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing a walls integrity.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground, after you have installed your new brake shoes, and trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.
BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut perfectly good aluminum sheet metal into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and also for butchering your palms.
PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER: A tool used primarily for making hoses too short.
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate those more expensive parts that are immediately adjacent to the object we are actually trying to hit.
UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on their contents, such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund cheques, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while being worn.
F*CK-IT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'F*CK-IT' at the top of your lungs. It is also most often, the next tool that you will need.
mikehn- Clubman
- Posts : 27
Join date : 2013-12-07
Re: Camper conversion
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Finally got back to finishing my conversion, my workplace closed down a couple of weeks ago and kinda knocked me sideways for a while. Nearly there except for the table set up. I have the top and bottom fittings for a table, just need to source the tube somewhere. I rubbed down the roof and repainted it last week, that was the only major cosmetic issue as the paint had started to let go on top, the only bit of filler needed in the whole vehicle was on the rear offside arch about the size of a fingernail. All gonig well I reckon I should be totally finished in about a week. (Thanks Woody for the words of wisdom, they helped.)
" />
Finally got back to finishing my conversion, my workplace closed down a couple of weeks ago and kinda knocked me sideways for a while. Nearly there except for the table set up. I have the top and bottom fittings for a table, just need to source the tube somewhere. I rubbed down the roof and repainted it last week, that was the only major cosmetic issue as the paint had started to let go on top, the only bit of filler needed in the whole vehicle was on the rear offside arch about the size of a fingernail. All gonig well I reckon I should be totally finished in about a week. (Thanks Woody for the words of wisdom, they helped.)
mikehn- Clubman
- Posts : 27
Join date : 2013-12-07
Re: Camper conversion
Looks like something you'ed get from a camper converstion specilest. Good job there. main thing i would like to know. How did the rock and roll bed turn out in terms of moving from seat to bed?
ToaseMan- Chatterbox
- Posts : 77
Join date : 2014-01-25
Location : Middle of no-where
Re: Camper conversion
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At the moment I can drop from seat to bed with one hand, I lift slightly at the front, I have two wheels at the back of the storage box that allows me to essentially roll the unit forward.To return to seating I grasp side of the timber with my right hand, lift and again lifting the front of the storage with my left hand slide it back against the stop, back to seat again
At the moment I can drop from seat to bed with one hand, I lift slightly at the front, I have two wheels at the back of the storage box that allows me to essentially roll the unit forward.To return to seating I grasp side of the timber with my right hand, lift and again lifting the front of the storage with my left hand slide it back against the stop, back to seat again
mikehn- Clubman
- Posts : 27
Join date : 2013-12-07
Re: Camper conversion
Pretty damn impressive job.
Logi- Jet Warrior
- Posts : 3662
Join date : 2011-04-07
Age : 88
Location : Kilmarnock
Re: Camper conversion
nice job,,ill send mine to you next time lol
singledad- Centurion
- Posts : 230
Join date : 2013-06-25
Location : sussex
Re: Camper conversion
well done looks awsome
Lab_Rat835- Centurion
- Posts : 117
Join date : 2013-09-09
Age : 40
Location : Northampton
Re: Camper conversion
Loving these tiny campers :-)
I need mine to be a van too so I used the lip that goes all around the roof to attach a hammock to, i just wind the seats back but if I'm there for a few days I put the passenger seat on backward so it faces into the back. It means unbolting it though, I couldn't figure out how to get the seats off the runners anyway
I need mine to be a van too so I used the lip that goes all around the roof to attach a hammock to, i just wind the seats back but if I'm there for a few days I put the passenger seat on backward so it faces into the back. It means unbolting it though, I couldn't figure out how to get the seats off the runners anyway
chinfuk- Chatterbox
- Posts : 72
Join date : 2013-07-28
Re: Camper conversion
love it
xxemaphorr- Centurion
- Posts : 177
Join date : 2010-04-08
Age : 39
Location : Scunthorpe
Bye Bye Baby- Goodbye
Sad to say my Jetty has to go before I even had time to properly enjoy it, I'm gutted but lost the job recently and absolutely no work going around here so needs must. A neighbour who has been in it many times has offered the wife €3400 which is about £2800, dont know why he said it to the wife mabey a bit of mind games going on as he knows I'm not best pleased about selling. The son and myself went to Clare in it last weekend to do a bit of sea fishing and it was grand. There were'nt many mackerel about but got enough for the tea. Cooked them in tin foil with a lump of butter, magic. A lovely way to end my 5 years with the Jetty.
mikehn- Clubman
- Posts : 27
Join date : 2013-12-07
Re: Camper conversion
How gutting! I feel real sorry for you as you put a lot of hard work into the van
If i was in the market for a camper i would be putting an offer in!
If i was in the market for a camper i would be putting an offer in!
FrontBackSide2Side- Cinquecento
- Posts : 584
Join date : 2013-10-04
Age : 41
Location : Kidderminster
Manuals
Dont know if any body is interested but I have the workshop manuals and parts list for the HiJet on disc. They seem to be pretty comprehensive although I'm sure that some of the old hands here could probably add a chapter or two. Any body needs a copy let me know and I will burn one off, just cover the postage.
mikehn- Clubman
- Posts : 27
Join date : 2013-12-07
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