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Engine Warning light on!

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Post by raydreadz Thu Nov 21, 2013 9:55 pm

HighlyJetted wrote:Any leak in the pre lambda sensor exhaust system will throw the o2 readings out big time.

So it could be that EGR valve.

Check on the live data that your TPS sensor and MAP sensor and IAT sensors are all working.
Cheers, I'll check them in the morning & order bolt extractor set.
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Post by rich the mechanic Thu Nov 21, 2013 10:31 pm

If you have a torx or spline drive set use them in the same way drill as small as hole as you can get away with and then hammer a bit in and use that, Bolt extractors are tapered and the harder you load them the more they force the end of the bolt out locking it even harder.
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Post by HighlyJetted Thu Nov 21, 2013 10:53 pm

Holes drilled in the thermostat will make the temperature fall beyond the "typical" static temperature which is normally about 1/2 way up the gauge when the vehicle is driving down the road, due to excessive coolant flow when the thermostat should be closed.

Non of this mind you will be causing the warning light to come on.
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Post by raydreadz Thu Nov 21, 2013 11:35 pm

Yeah, I get it's 2 separate issues.

This thermostat...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300999318627?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

... has the wiggle pin inside the central bit, not on the outer flange, so I thought a couple of 2mm holes at the top would let the air out while filling up but wouldn't be enough to disrupt the temp.... guess I was wrong.
Looking for something to plug the holes now as I've tested my other 2 stats & they're both opening late under test & now in the bin.


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Post by raydreadz Sat Nov 23, 2013 6:50 pm

rich the mechanic wrote:If you have a torx or spline drive set use them in the same way drill as small as hole as you can get away with and then hammer a bit in and use that, Bolt extractors are tapered and the harder you load them the more they force the end of the bolt out locking it even harder.
Hats off to ya Cool 

That worked a treat. I cut a clean face with my Fein multimaster 'magic tool' & then followed your tip & it wound out easy.
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Post by raydreadz Sat Nov 23, 2013 7:08 pm

HighlyJetted wrote:Holes drilled in the thermostat will make the temperature fall beyond the "typical" static temperature which is normally about 1/2 way up the gauge when the vehicle is driving down the road, due to excessive coolant flow when the thermostat should be closed.
Blocked up the the holes on the thermostat, mostly... minuscule gaps now & temp reading is much better. Cheers me dear
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Post by raydreadz Sat Nov 23, 2013 8:03 pm

HighlyJetted wrote:Any leak in the pre lambda sensor exhaust system will throw the o2 readings out big time.

So it could be that EGR valve.

Check on the live data that your TPS sensor and MAP sensor and IAT sensors are all working.
EGR bolted down properly now after getting the sheared bolt out today & managed to tighten the exhaust on a little more.

Idle much better, slows down much quicker after a cold start & drops down to a proper nice purr once it's warmed up.
Took it out for spin with the scanner & O2 reading is much more stable although not much movement from 0.00-0.93 to 0.03-0.88 Didn't go far as I've got the superglued thermostat housing on at the mo. Still drove hard for 20 mins tho.

Checked the sensors:

TPS is that the same as TP% ? giving a reading on revs

MAP gives a reading

IAT .... No reading says 33 at top but no graph..... I'll have a look tomorrow
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Post by HighlyJetted Sat Nov 23, 2013 9:38 pm

IAT is the white sensor in the air intake rubber pipe.

Test data is here https://hijet.forumotion.com/t1794-test-your-suspected-faulty-sensors#16126
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Post by raydreadz Sun Nov 24, 2013 11:50 am

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Post by HighlyJetted Sun Nov 24, 2013 12:46 pm

These aint bad, I have a couple that I have bought when needing a test meter and been along way from home http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/electrical/electricians-tools/digital_multimeter/B-and-Q-Pocket-Digital-Multimeter-12758714?skuId=13269420
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Post by HighlyJetted Sun Nov 24, 2013 12:48 pm

Also, a crude way to test the IAT sensor, is to put it in your hand or some warm water, and see if the reading changes on the live data scanner. Also unplug it and see if the reading changes.
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Post by raydreadz Mon Nov 25, 2013 4:54 pm

Looks like the IAT sensor is ok. it's a black plug on mine.... the graph only registers with a change in temp, it was registering 6 deg C this morning & the graph would show up as a blip every few minutes as it slowly warmed up a degree at a time.

I could take the sensor out & clean it.... does it twist out like a bayonet? I don't want to force it.

It's running really sweet now, a little bit of a 'gear whine' if that makes sense, from the alternator belt area... only on a cold start for a few minutes. I fitted a new water pump so I'm thinking it could only be the alternator bearing. I've heard it before, seems to come & go.

Just waiting on the thermostat housing to fit & tomorrow I'm gonna take off the new radiator & check for leaks... Somethings not quite right there. It's dripping from somewhere I can't see, maybe the pipes to the heater otherwise I may have a leaky new rad Neutral . I start a new job on Monday with over an hour commute each way, so I really hope not.

Thanks for your all your wisdom & patience Mat


Last edited by raydreadz on Mon Nov 25, 2013 4:56 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : edit)
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