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brake pads

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brake pads Empty brake pads

Post by streetboy Fri Feb 15, 2013 3:01 pm

Hi all,

well alas the time has come roll up the sleeves and tackle some long overdue work to the little bus Neutral
Rear wheel cylinders, shoes etc, and pads up front. Now, the pins are pretty rusted and I reckon could be a problem getting the halves apart without snapping them. Any tricks for this?

Possible n/s front wheel bearing, get a real vibration when braking down hard from speed. Or could it be something else? bottom arm, ball/track joint, caliper grabbing? Also get a rubbing come grinding noise when braking at a very slow speed. Any ideas?

And last but not least, where is the best place to find mechanical parts?

Many thanks in advance, Mark. Wink

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Post by streetboy Tue Feb 19, 2013 7:32 pm

Guess i'll manage Neutral

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Post by rich the mechanic Tue Feb 19, 2013 7:44 pm

if the pads are worn out it can cause the rubbing noise, as for the pins so long as you soak them in penatrating oil/solution you can get to them with a pair of mole grips and wiggle them back and forth to loosen them up the the only probs I had was the retaining clip snapped off in one side as for parts the internet or a motor factor like motorquip.
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Post by HighlyJetted Wed Feb 20, 2013 12:06 pm

Sorry never saw this thread for some reason...

For getting the pins out, loads of WD40 etc as rich says then use this trick if they are stuck:-

https://hijet.forumotion.com/t1197-brake-calipers

Best way to work out whats at fault with your breaking wobble, check all your bushes and wheel bearing by hand by wobbling the wheel around with your knees. Then have a look at the brake disk, I bet one of your disks is past it's best.

Ebay for disks and pads etc... everything pretty much.

I get the odd thing from my local unipart motorfactors.

And oil I buy from a supermarket
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Post by streetboy Wed Feb 20, 2013 10:33 pm

Thank you for your posts guys Wink

Reckon its wheel bearing, but not ruling out discs,pads, bushes etc. Even a bent lower wishbone.


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Post by HighlyJetted Wed Feb 20, 2013 10:50 pm

You can check wheel bearings the easiest, don't even have to jack it up.
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Post by streetboy Sat Feb 23, 2013 1:34 pm

Had a look today. Wheel bearing looks like its going as there are a spec or two of metal on the hub. Think the disc may be distorted too. So decided to go the whole hog and fit wheel bearing, new discs, as I'm doing the pads and rear shoes anyway.
Can't see any play in the bushes and lower arm.

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Post by HighlyJetted Sat Feb 23, 2013 4:53 pm

Is there any play in them?
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Post by streetboy Sun Feb 24, 2013 7:46 pm

Is there any play in them?

If you mean the wheel bearings? then yes there is some play in the n/s front. Can't see any play in the bushes or bottom ball joint etc.
I love this little bus and have spent nothing since I have owned it, some 2 years now. Its always done a sterling job and some long runs so about time I spoiled her a bit Wink

Mind you I made a bit of an error Saturday, one of those mad moments. I jacked the old girl up via the gearbox and not on the front cross member as usual. I now have a very harsh vibration where something is touching out on the body on acceleration! Rolling Eyes quick look and pretty sure its not the exhaust.

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Post by Logi Sun Feb 24, 2013 7:57 pm

streetboy wrote:. I jacked the old girl up via the gearbox

affraid
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Post by HighlyJetted Sun Feb 24, 2013 8:15 pm

Have a good look at the 3 engine mounts, you may have erm.... "re-engineered" one of them. It may have torn away from the metal plates.

I've been buying my brake pads and discs of ebay, and they have been much cheaper than I could blag at any of the motor factors. They turned up quick too.

As for wheel bearing, I never fit cheap wheel bearings. I've had way more bad experinces with cheap chinese copy wheel bearings than successes. They have a habbit of lasting a couple of months then they start making noises and getting play in them. I like SKF or NSK bearings, or anything that doesn't say india, china etc on the box. I want Japanese, German etc when it comes to bearings.
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Post by Little Black Van Mon Feb 25, 2013 9:50 pm

Seen a set of brake pads on ebay that say they are only for the 1.3. Is this actually the case, and did something change in the brakes for the 1.3 or is he just talking bollocks?

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Post by streetboy Tue Feb 26, 2013 12:10 am

Have a good look at the 3 engine mounts, you may have erm.... "re-engineered" one of them. It may have torn away from the metal plates.

spot on!!

Did not lift it clean off the ground but still enough to damage the n/s mount. putting two and two together I have noticed a very slight vibe over the last few weeks, guess I finished it off Embarassed

Now i really do need help as to who stocks them, or coming up with a good replacement, and fast too.

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Post by streetboy Tue Feb 26, 2013 12:12 am

Seen a set of brake pads on ebay that say they are only for the 1.3. Is this actually the case, and did something change in the brakes for the 1.3 or is he just talking bollocks?

discs stated as only 1.3 have the same spec as a 1.0.

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Post by streetboy Tue Feb 26, 2013 12:29 am

Thinking on it, would it be best to get a complete cross member with the mounts on from a scrapper/breakers?

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Post by HighlyJetted Tue Feb 26, 2013 12:47 am

Nah, just get the mount.

On the two I have tried to unbolt the engine mount frame off, all that's happened when I've tried unbolting the frame is the captive nuts have snapped off the inside of the chassis and then the just spin, not loosening at all.

It's easier to just replace one mounting anyway, just GENTLY jack the engine off the mount, switch it over, then drop it back onto the bolt.


As for the pads dilemma - I am no expert because I have not owned a 993cc to check for myself, but looking at the two power sellers on ebay who sell bosch pad and some others, for all the different models they advertise they all seem to have the same part number. But do your own research as I cannot say from hands on experience.
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Post by Guest Tue Feb 26, 2013 8:03 am

Similar thing happened to me recently. The guy I use for changing cambelts and idler ( he charges me £80 all inclusive ) had it jacked up on the crossmember and it slipped off onto the sump and tore the nearside mounting.
I was getting lots of viabration through the bodywork particularly around 50mph and on over-run.

I replaced it last Saturday afternoon and was pretty easy to do I found. Glad it wasn't the offside as to me it looks a bit more awkward and when you have hands the size of coal shovels like mine the are great for Gorillaring stubborn nuts off but not too good for getting into confined spaces.

I bow to your experience of wiring looms HJ as I was generalising as a layman with modern electonics. Straightforward lighting wipers etc towbar stuff I can do and all the interior wiring on my Romahomes.

!8 months ago I put a 1954 Fergy tractor back together for a friend and there was no loom so I made one from scratch which I was really chuffed about when after 14 years of sitting in a pile of bits in the corner of his Barn I got it running.

I havent bothered with my dead pick-up yet as workload too great at the moment. Anyway have a good ski-ing Holiday HJ.

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Post by streetboy Tue Feb 26, 2013 11:41 pm

Similar thing happened to me recently. The guy I use for changing cambelts and idler ( he charges me £80 all inclusive ) had it jacked up on the crossmember and it slipped off onto the sump and tore the nearside

That confirms it then. New mounts on the way so just need to endure it a few days longer.

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