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Anual head gasket replacement

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Post by CoolJet Tue May 21, 2019 5:35 pm

I did the gasket aprox. four years ago when i bought the van. It already came with a gasket set in the trunk. Did it very quick and dirty.
Didnt have to buy a thing. I also put the old pump and belts back in.
Though I knew there is evil rust pitting on the block i didnt do anything much but whack a new head gasket and intake gasket in.
I cleaned some of the piping and fixed the radiator leak with 2k epoxy.
I was always sure it would be due again, soon.

So in the mean time i got a new used radiator that looks pretty fit and waited for the gong.
All my brakes failed in the mean time including the Master cylinder so i did put in a brand new master cylinder und lots tubing and rear cylinders a year ago.
Got new TÜV for 2 years lately (german for MOT) got congrats for geat condition by the TÜV-Prüfer man. (old friend of mine  Twisted Evil )
And now that i have experienced a couple of month with regular overheating. I need to do the gasket job again.
The car is in a very good condition apart from the motor and i had so much fun with the little van so ill put a lot more money and work in it this time.

I already got the head and rad out. its awefully rusty everywhere but the head is not warped or cracked so i think its worth the effort.
I already bought most of the stuff. Only i am still waiting for the new pump to come in.

I already testet the the thermostat. its rated open @ 83°. The old one was 88° and in deed it opens much more quickly in the stove test.
I plan to fill the pits with this interesting "QuikSteel" stuff I found.
One of the spark plug cable plugs seems to have pulverized over time. So thats the reason for the new cable batch if you were wondering.

I could post more pictures later of the repair if anyone is interested. Wish me luck!  pig

Anual head gasket replacement 3RkkV5J
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Post by verryoldman Tue May 28, 2019 5:03 pm

Why not every one hear likes photos Shocked
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Post by Raggy Tue May 28, 2019 9:32 pm

Yes definitely more pictures of the build process etc.
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Post by Lex_Michdebus Wed May 29, 2019 12:52 am

Viel Glück gewünscht!
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Post by CoolJet Sun Jun 02, 2019 1:37 am

@Lex: Bedankt!

and thanks all for your interest.

Since i have a part time job and i have other hobbies, too. Its taking its time.
I can work around having no car.
So I made this my main project for the last 3 weeks or so

I like to do everything myself. So I flattend the block and head using the sand paper an a board diy method.
Yeah.... machine shop etc. But wost part is the block anyway and it wouldnt be enough to only skim it at the shop because pits in the block are too severe.

Anyways i am not sorted jet with the pics and everythging so i will post more from the repair laters. But first a little bit of the carnage. Its astonishing it was still running. It had no compression at all. All the cylinders were compromised. I could easily spin the crankshaft by hand an listen to the air beeing poumped into the cooling system like a wet fart  Shocked


enjoy!

Anual head gasket replacement HAcE4g6l
Anual head gasket replacement AhxSKv7l

Are the picture sizes ok? If yes i will continue with this size.
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Post by CoolJet Sun Jun 02, 2019 1:48 pm

gawper food

https://imgur.com/a/iaS5vOT


I can tell you this already the "quiksteel! stuff is pretty funny... i never seen anything like that.
I also actually never worked with these kind of steel powder infused adhesives.
This stuff has a water soluable base. When it dries it kind of settles and the metal flakes bind to an ultra hard metal like black matter that will become shiny wenn sanded.

I played around with it a little before and you can heat it up with a blow torch untill it glows and it will be still hard like stone after cooling down. Litle more brittle than solid metal though. Heating it up slowly to 300 degree doesnt do anything to it. I read that people bodge repair their cracked outlet manifold with this and it works for a good time.
You can work it with a file but it will be a bit brittle if thin but it sticks perfectly even in very thin layers.
You can work it with the best sand paper but it will strip your sand paper like nothing.
Its much much harder than cast iron from the motor block.

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Post by Lex_Michdebus Mon Jun 03, 2019 12:23 am

Pictures are fine on my end. It looks as if it's 'been around the block'. Have you been using sea water to cool it? Anyway, keep going, you're doing great!
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Post by CoolJet Mon Jun 03, 2019 1:05 am

harharharhar har har

Yes there was tap water introduced into the system at a certain point of desperate need. Once it was in there the inhibition threshold dropped. I should have at least used destilled water. 2015 i did everything in two days and it wasnt done anything near propely. Cant be done in two days. The rust that was already in there quickly infected everything this time.

Still i pledge guilty. Sentence is beeing served in the garage.
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Post by Lex_Michdebus Mon Jun 03, 2019 9:19 pm

Käse closed.
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Post by Guest Wed Jun 05, 2019 8:46 am

I hope that the final work on your engine has gone well for you CJ. Looks and sounds like you have been very thorough with your repair work.
I have used Super Steel on cast iron blocks where they have frozen up and punched a lump of the block out - with great success.
But it certainly won't have been any good for what you have done.

I haven't come across this product before. It sounds a pretty amazing product to me. Thanks for sharing your mal-adventures with us. Very helpful.

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Post by Guest Wed Jun 05, 2019 8:46 am

I hope that the final work on your engine has gone well for you CJ. Looks and sounds like you have been very thorough with your repair work.
I have used Super Steel on cast iron blocks where they have frozen up and punched a lump of the block out - with great success.
But it certainly won't have been any good for what you have done.

I haven't come across this product before. It sounds a pretty amazing product to me. Thanks for sharing your mal-adventures with us. Very helpful.

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Post by Guest Wed Jun 05, 2019 8:47 am

I hope that the final work on your engine has gone well for you CJ. Looks and sounds like you have been very thorough with your repair work.
I have used Super Steel on cast iron blocks where they have frozen up and punched a lump of the block out - with great success.
But it certainly won't have been any good for what you have done.

I haven't come across this product before. It sounds a pretty amazing product to me. Thanks for sharing your mal-adventures with us. Very helpful.

Guest
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Post by Guest Wed Jun 05, 2019 8:50 am

Just getting my number of posts up.!! lol!

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Post by CoolJet Wed Jun 05, 2019 12:22 pm

drunken Thanks for your support! Its going nice and slow.
I kinda got used to having no car so been doing things i normally never have the time and patience to do.
Yesterday i had the Seats in the shower. ^^
I play with the thought of "detailing" the carborator now. queen

Anyways i will add more pics of the repair soon and i will take some high resolution pics with my canon and post them somewhen next days
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Post by CoolJet Sat Jun 08, 2019 8:11 pm

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Post by Lex_Michdebus Sun Jun 09, 2019 2:04 am

CoolJet wrote:

I invaded your privacy and looked at the liked videos. SL2, Altern8. I think I like you a lot!

Oh I'm sorry continue your work!
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Post by CoolJet Sun Jun 09, 2019 2:36 pm

No invasion taken! Subbed you back. I love your Datsun and i also love Nederwiet afro
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Post by Lex_Michdebus Sun Jun 09, 2019 3:24 pm

Don't carry that stuff across the border... Polizei doesn't like it!
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Post by Raggy Sun Jun 09, 2019 9:52 pm

Looking good, keep up the videos
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Post by CoolJet Fri Jun 21, 2019 10:26 pm

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Post by CoolJet Fri Jun 21, 2019 10:27 pm

Anual head gasket replacement TAcFIzFh
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Post by CoolJet Fri Jun 21, 2019 10:29 pm

I will add more pics and videos for you soon! Havent had installed the rad.... was just a first test start. I am extatic it runs hope its all tight, too. will see tomorrow.
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Post by Lex_Michdebus Fri Jun 21, 2019 11:44 pm

Funny feeling when you get it to work. Does have a loud ticking though. Valve clearance ok? Or timing? Or oil?
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Post by CoolJet Sat Jun 22, 2019 12:17 am

Lex_Michdebus wrote:Funny feeling when you get it to work. Does have a loud ticking though. Valve clearance ok? Or timing? Or oil?

Its this moment when you get the report card. Its such a relief.
And yes timing is completely off... didnt want to let it run much longer without the coolant.
i have one of those cheap timing lights but no tacho and idle is a bit high i think.
but ill find a way and set it up roughly tomorrow.
That ticking was always there though.
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Post by CoolJet Sat Jun 22, 2019 10:00 pm

I dont see the damn marks. I need to find a small mirror cant see the edge of the flywheel. when i turn it to the maximum counterclockwise i see some mark looks like drawn with a big felt tip but runs rough in that position. In the middle its fine but i want to set it exaclty to 5° BDC... to be continued

Anyways i bled the hell out of it today and it seems to be all tight..
Rythmically massaged the hoses... let the fan come on..... no more bubbles...   Very Happy
I let it cool down with the watering can attached so it doesnt zip in air fron the unbled reservoir tank hose ....  Suspect

By the way has anyone ever made or bought a speed controller for the fan? so you can let it run continuously on half the normal speed or sth?

I hate to always have the heater on high in summer. But full fan in the front is too much, too i think.

I can make a prototype. I have all the electronics laying around.
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Post by Raggy Sun Jun 23, 2019 8:53 am

Interesting project for a fan controller. Probably better with a two stage one, depending on temp...or even better combined with speed as it’s usually when you are slow or stopped the problems start due to heat soak into the engine building up and holding 5he temp when no fan is running so no air flow.
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Post by CoolJet Sun Jun 23, 2019 12:13 pm

All right. I though about that, too. 2-3 stage or stepless.. temp driven, too. Maybe a combination. But first i thought about keeping it simple and cheap.
Pretty easy would be to take aa ESC for remote controlled cars and control it with a microcontroller and a potentiometer.
Probably an analog version would be a little cheaper. But a microcontroller would leave all doors open for later advancements like temp and speed triggering. And its cheap and easy, too.

Since i guess its a brushed motor i dont have an ESC for these laying around and will have to look out for one suitable.

What would a speed driven system look like? full fan speed when stopping and transitioning to no fan when certain speed is reached?
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Post by CoolJet Mon Jun 24, 2019 7:36 pm

https://www.ebay.de/itm/352680431363

found this... will see. But i will make a different Thread for this...


Today i finished with the head gasket repair... the last thing that held me was the gas pedal.

It was hanging when beeing depressed to deep since the repair. i think it happend when i hit the gas while the intake manifold wasnt in place. I found the inner coating to be knackered at the carborateur end and spend hours removing the coating and filling it up with ptfe spray and silicon oil. no success.... I followed the line if its kinked somewhere. I havent found anything. Only i found out that getting it off would require to takle the most awkwardly placed bolt beneth the motor mount. absolutely no chance to get it off. So that would require destroying the throttle cable and replace it with a new one and fix it with a cable tie.... But then i started filling in oil at the gas pedal side... and it suddenly bettered. i filled another 10 liters of ptfe and silicon oil with a siringe and a thin needle and now it doesnt get stuck anymore... so now i can focus on all the other little issues like. Fan controller, blinker glas, summer tyres, sliding door handle, bodywork....

will add more pics and videos here though soon  Laughing
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Post by Lex_Michdebus Wed Jun 26, 2019 11:30 am

Glad to have you back! Perfect timing for a trip to www.japanclassicsunday.nl
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Post by Raggy Wed Jun 26, 2019 8:15 pm

Forgot to say wish my engine and bay looked as good!
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