Filling and bleeding (yet again)

Couple of quick questions guys please. Hijet 1.3EFI, 1998.
I can't find the engine coolant drain plug for the life of me. Any chance of a clue?
The thermostat had been installed with the jiggle pin on the downhill side, am I right in thinking that is no good? I think it should be "uphill" nearest the top end of the engine. I have a new one anyway. Whoever put it in had plastered loads of silicone seal gunge all over the seal ring and mating faces. It was a bugger to get apart.
Should there be a small hose connected to the top of the thermostat housing, going to the steel pipe with the pressure cap under the shotgun seat? There's a hose thereabouts with the end plugged with a bolt and a self-tapper bodged into the top of the thermostat housing with epoxy. Is this critical anyway? I imagine the small volume of air there should be shoved out by the water pump the first time the thermostat opens; what does the panel think? (Edit: I just found a drawing showing the hose connected as I suspected, but still wonder how critical it is).

By the way I found the infamous bolt at the back of the thermostat housing is pretty easy to get at if you whip the alternator out first. 1/4" drive socket set essential though.

The advice I've read on the site about bleeding the system looks brilliant and Woody's advice about renewing the three bolts is great. The originals are just nasty.

I always drain from the radiator cock or by pulling the bottom hose off, don't think there's a plug on the engine. Yes, pin should be at top of stat.
Where where you able to get the bolts from?

Okay - cheers for that.
As for the bolts I got them from a selection box at work. There's nothing fancy about them, they're just M6x1x20 setscrews. Although the new ones I have are A4 stainless. Unless you mean how did I get the socket to the back one? With the alternator out of the way there's a pretty straight path to it for the socket on a long extension. ISTR I just pushed some wiring to one side.
Do you have any views on the thermostat housing bleed port question? I have emailed Woodie to ask for the expert opinion, but I think he must be busy.

Thanks for the size - I need to change the stat on one of my vans and want to have some bolts ready for when I do it.
I think I'd re-fit that hose if possible - there must be a reason for it being there.

Yup - I suspect you're right. If I can't get another housing I might attempt a repair by drilling and tapping the top of the housing and using a 1/8" NPT plug as a bleeder. Or perhaps a brake bleed nipple. I've got loads of those.
I'd rather have a new housing though, if anyone can help with one.

Sorry GB, thought you had a new housing. May be best left alone until we can establish the importance of the hose, as you've not had a problem without it.

I do have one brand new housing, but with 2 vans I'm not inclined to let it go, sorry.

Things are definitely looking up now. I just had an email from Woody offering a complete housing. What a star! Needless to say I have accepted the offer and sent the payment so with a bit of British luck I hope for a good result.
I'm still going to attempt a repair to my broken housing. I found a knackered Caterpillar fuel injection pipe which I think I can use to make a bleed pipe bonded in and so have a spare. I can't see why it wouldn't work.

Having done my first stat change on a Hijet yesterday, I suspect the small hose from the top of the stat housing is to release air, or possibly pressure.

I may post about my experience when I'm less likely to rant about the disproportionate amount of work needed change just one simple item!

I would presume so looking at a picture of one otherwise highly likely it would be a perfect place to get air trapped. Got a 993 myself which is a different housing and more compact so it does not have a bleed device on top.

I dunno Raggy, I'd have thought the water pump ought to kick any air out of the top of the stat housing the first time the stat opened, but maybe not. I have now received the new housing Woody sent me so I'm nearly ready to bang it all back together as soon as I get a few free hours. I'll take the opportunity to sort out some of the "ad-hoc" wiring mods the PO did (or had done for her) while I'm at it. At least I'll be a bit more in my comfort zone with that!

The top bleeder pipe goes onto one of the 8 connections on The Strangled Octopus.

I have mentioned it before several times. The easiest way to get at the awkward 10mm setbolt is to use a 1/4' inch drive Socket Set with a long Wobble Bar Extension. It makes it so much easier and you can pick them up for very little money.

It doesn't have to be SnapOn. But if you have like me you know that it will last and is covered by a lifetime guarantee - as long as you don't lose the part..
Mind you for me that is running out fast.