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mechanics that are good with hi jets? (the answer to this is.... if you want a job done properly, do it yourself!)

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mechanics that are good with hi jets? (the answer to this is.... if you want a job done properly, do it yourself!) Empty mechanics that are good with hi jets? (the answer to this is.... if you want a job done properly, do it yourself!)

Post by elfin girl Wed Sep 12, 2012 12:18 pm

hi, i think im doing this right, it took me a few mins to work out how to log in Shocked

ive had my hijet for a few years now, its had an over heating problem for the last year, im having no luck with it and its getting worse.

i have had a look through the site and although there is a lot of stuff that is no doubt going to be helpfull as i cant always fix stuff myself due to time, tools and lack of knowldge wondered if we could start a thread where people give details of mechanics that are experienced with the hijets? as we all know these little blighters can be difficult and awkward to work with and im having problems finding anyone that is able to efficiently fix it Sad

im sure most of thes mechanics are going to be too far away for me to get to but thought it would be helpfull for those of us that may need a bit of help getting them fixed Smile


Last edited by daisydon on Fri Nov 02, 2012 4:22 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post by HighlyJetted Wed Sep 12, 2012 5:30 pm

This is a very good idea. Unfortunately garages are very rarely interested in fixing things which require diagnostic work as its a case of taking on the old "how long is a piece of string" and the other issue is most garages do not have very good diagnostic mechanics at hand.

On top of non of them knowing jack shit about hijets and thus being scared to work on them it leaves owners in a serious problem!

I guess you are Donella-marie Webb Wink

So far what has been done to your van? Lets see where your upto with it:-

rad been flushed, both rad caps changed (although had to make extra rubber seals cos they are a slightly different size) water pump checked, thermo switch on fan checked, thermostat changed, twice, its now removed and still not helped, i think there is now a good chance the head gasket is causing a problem but this wasnt the case when it started! it now leaks water from the rad cap slowly as its heating up, then gets hot, purges water into filler tank (which does sometimes get sucked back into system) i have found in the last couple of days that when i take off the cap under the seat there is a lot o preasure and water splurges out (this is when cold) dont know if this is supposed to happen? leak test done too, didnt find anything

My reply on facebook:-

That rad cap seepage issue is going to cause you big problems. If you don't keep the system 100% pressure tight it will always boil over. Next one to look at is the bottom hose on the radiator, the clip rots and often cracks, and also the bottom of the radiators are very prone to tiny leakage that doesn't show when cold. You can normally tell though because the bottom 2-3 inches of the rad will be a different colour and the end cap clamps will be rotten. It will require the bumper to be taken off to inspect it properly which is a 2 minute job.
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Post by elfin girl Wed Sep 12, 2012 7:40 pm

yep, thats me, sorry i kinda got carried away on face book and forgot to check for replies on here!
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Post by Logi Wed Sep 12, 2012 7:48 pm

Just read this. Earlier post question about seals has been answered, simple answer here is if the rad cap dont fit its the wrong one. I just replaced mine, no need to bugger about with seals. Whats the cap pressure?
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Post by PFM Wed Sep 12, 2012 7:50 pm

daisydon wrote:yep, thats me, sorry i kinda got carried away on face book
You're surely not the first...
It's much better here, though.

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Post by elfin girl Wed Sep 12, 2012 7:54 pm

Logi wrote:Just read this. Earlier post question about seals has been answered, simple answer here is if the rad cap dont fit its the wrong one. I just replaced mine, no need to bugger about with seals. Whats the cap pressure?

cap presure is 0.9 think this is right
where did you get your cap from? nobody round here seems able to get anyhthing for a hijet!


Last edited by daisydon on Wed Sep 12, 2012 7:56 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : add mor info)
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Post by Logi Wed Sep 12, 2012 7:56 pm

I read your other post. There's air in the system, you dont mention the bleed valve so i guess youre not bleeding it from there?
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Post by elfin girl Wed Sep 12, 2012 7:57 pm

Logi wrote:I read your other post. There's air in the system, you dont mention the bleed valve so i guess youre not bleeding it from there?

ummmm??? wheres the bleed valve ?? Embarassed
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Post by Logi Wed Sep 12, 2012 8:10 pm

Ok, rad caps. Quinton Hazell (QH) part number is FC64 Whats yours?
Bleeding the rad my way.
Heater to hot.
Open both caps.
Fill bottom cap.
Close.
Fill top cap.
Open bottom cap.
Coolant pisses out.
After 1/2 litre close bottom cap.
Fill top cap again.
Close top cap.
Start engine.
Open bleed valve*.
Let quite a lot come out(takes time)
Should be a fairly constant flow.
Close bleed valve.
Let cool.
Open bottom cap, fill slowly whilst engine running.
Let run till fan kicks in.
Let cool again, recheck.

Its a fanny about but worth it.

*Bleed valve is under driver seat on water pipe, wee rubber nipple thing with a spring clip.

Also as HJ says, check, better to just replace all main hose clips at rad, it's what caused my recent hotness.
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Post by Logi Wed Sep 12, 2012 8:11 pm

Is your heater hot?
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Post by HighlyJetted Wed Sep 12, 2012 8:28 pm

To keep this all together, copied off facebook:-

Donella-marie Webb looks interesting site, about the only thing i have to offer about my hijet at the moment is AAAaaaaaRRRRRrrrGGGggggggg!!!! it realy is a love hate relationship and leaning more towards hate! the overheating issue is beyond a joke now!
8 hours ago · Like · 1

Matt Simpson What have you done to try and fix it?
3 hours ago · Like

Donella-marie Webb rad been flushed, both rad caps changed (although had to make extra rubber seals cos they are a slightly different size) water pump checked, thermo switch on fan checked, thermostat changed, twice, its now removed and still not helped, i think there is now a good chance the head gasket is causing a problem but this wasnt the case when it started! it now leaks water from the rad cap slowly as its heating up, then gets hot, purges water into filler tank (which does sometimes get sucked back into system) i have found in the last couple of days that when i take off the cap under the seat there is a lot o preasure and water splurges out (this is when cold) dont know if this is supposed to happen?
3 hours ago · Like

Donella-marie Webb leak test done too, didnt find anything
3 hours ago · Like

Matt Simpson That rad cap seepage issue is going to cause you big problems. If you don't keep the system 100% pressure tight it will always boil over. Next one to look at is the bottom hose on the radiator, the clip rots and often cracks, and also the bottom of the radiators are very prone to tiny leakage that doesn't show when cold. You can normally tell though because the bottom 2-3 inches of the rad will be a different colour and the end cap clamps will be rotten. It will require the bumper to be taken off to inspect it properly which is a 2 minute job.
3 hours ago · Like

Donella-marie Webb yeah, the rad cap leak is a new oneso untill i can stop that ive got no chance! i made a new silicone seal from one of those cake cases last night to hopefully stop the water coming out there! ill investigate the bottom of rad tommorow, loosing light now, how do i get the bumper off??!!!
2 hours ago · Like

Matt Simpson There's a screw at the bottom when you open the doors, a couple under the bottom of the bumper, and then there is two in the bumper front itself - like down some circular recess hole bits under the head lights but above where the optional extra fog lights go. I think they are all 10mm.
2 hours ago · Like

Donella-marie Webb ok ill have a look before it gets too dark then hopefully do it tommorow, cheers!
2 hours ago · Like

Donella-marie Webb internet is handy for some stuff, i got a manual on disc, but no mention of how to remove body work and stuff to get to things!
2 hours ago · Like

Matt Simpson I'm not a big manual user myself, I tend to just work it out as I go along - except for wiring, where a diagram is handy but not always available thus going back to make it up as you go along Razz
2 hours ago · Like

Matt Simpson Have faith, you will get to the bottom of this if you make no assumptions.
2 hours ago · Like

Donella-marie Webb hehe, yeah, i wouldnt mind if i had a driveway and a spare vehicle while this one is missbehaving!
2 hours ago · Like

Donella-marie Webb well i can certainly manage to get the bumper off providing the bolts arnt rusted on, which tells me that rad was not removed and flushed by a person that said theyed done it!!
about an hour ago · Unlike · 1

Matt Simpson Here we go, this doesn't surprise me. Typical garage syndrome.
about an hour ago · Like

Donella-marie Webb yeah, even worse that said mechanic was my self employed (now ex) bf!!! (he is a very good mechanic, just not when it came to fixing mine!)
about an hour ago · Like

Matt Simpson Making money out of cars and customers is 100% incompatible with being honest. That's why I don't and cannot work in that industry. Fixing a hijet will cost more than it's worth when it costs £60 per hour in the workshop plus parts and VAT.
about an hour ago · Like

Donella-marie Webb yeah, he dont charge that much tho, the cheepest and most overworked mechanic in the area, just a shame he prefered it if i couldnt travel far on my own! does give me a bloody good reason to be able to fix the thing for myself tho, that would be a poke in the eye for him!
about an hour ago · Like

Matt Simpson Also so you know, to change a thermostat on a hijet takes quite a long time as its hard to get too under the inlet manifold. Its a right swine of a job actually.
29 minutes ago · Like

Donella-marie Webb i was trying to figure out where it was so i could tell if anything had been done in that area, the problem actualy started with me having no heat at all in the winterr even though it was running fine, was told there was no stat so one was put in then the overheating problem started in the summer!
24 minutes ago · Like

Donella-marie Webb so would i need to jack it up and get underneath to get to the thermostat? im sure imcapable of doing it if i know where it is! and does it need gasket? (cereal box!)
18 minutes ago · Like

Matt Simpson no the thermostat is on top of the engine, you can sort of see it under the seats, its right in the middle buried under the inlet manifold. As I said its a bitch of a location!! It has a black plastic theromstat housing which has a 90 degree bend on it. If we move this chat over to the forum I will post up some diagrams Wink
4 minutes ago · Like

Donella-marie Webb ok
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Post by elfin girl Wed Sep 12, 2012 8:34 pm

starts off fairly cool, takes a few miles then have hot air, then water dribbles out of rad cap then cold air and temp goes to max, takes about 15 miles, get bubbling into overflow that fills up, if i stop and leave it to next day it does sometimes suck the water back from overflow tank, i will try the bleed pipe tommow, hopefully ill be able to get to the dentist!
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Post by elfin girl Wed Sep 12, 2012 8:35 pm

thanks highlyjetted, was getting a bit confusing didnt know where i was!
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Post by HighlyJetted Wed Sep 12, 2012 10:00 pm

I'm not sure where here is, but its definitely where we're all at.
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Post by elfin girl Wed Sep 12, 2012 11:07 pm

Last post for tonight,
couldn't sit here with van outside so thought I'd do it now, I'm pretty sure it doesn't have the bleed valve on pipe, is this where the LPG has been put in? There was a lot of air in it this time more thn I've seen before, hopefully I've got enough air out and water in to get me to Enfield tomorrow, least I'll find out if the rad cap is still leaking!
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Post by HighlyJetted Thu Sep 13, 2012 2:29 pm

yeah the lpg vaporizer is tee'd in where logi says there is a bleed nipple.
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Post by elfin girl Thu Sep 13, 2012 4:51 pm

Well I'll have another look for it later, it's rather hot at the mo, still leaking at the rad cap (it has no part no on it but will try get another and what happens) so I held up the traffic a little on the a10 while it cooled down and I refilled with water
Think I'll take a pic n try posting it and see if anyone else can spot the bleed nipple!
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Post by elfin girl Thu Sep 13, 2012 5:46 pm

ok,ive taken pictures but have no idea how to post them on here!
basicaly there is a pipe coming out of what i presume is the lpg vaporizer, its goes strait under between the seats and into something at the back of the drivers drivers seat, there arnt any t junctions just the one hose, i have followed all the pipes i can find and they all are connected at both ends to something else,
i also have found some wires that look decidedly dodgy, they are coming from something that is connected to the cooling system low down towards the front under the passenger seat!! my arms are barely long enough to reach them but i may just be small enough to squeeze underneath to sort that!
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Post by elfin girl Thu Sep 13, 2012 5:55 pm

i have just been reading some other posts and seen one that says the rad cap and the cap that goes on the pipe under the pasenger seat are different? both of mine are sprung could this be my problem??!
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Post by elfin girl Thu Sep 13, 2012 6:06 pm

logi, i have googled your part number and come up with nothing!
i have nothing to compare to except one of the old caps, all the caps on ebay look the same as my new ones, which are very similar to the one that was on before except the diameter of the internal seal is slightly smaller and the depth is a few mm shorter,
it seems im in a black hole where no parts to fit my van exist
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Post by Logi Thu Sep 13, 2012 6:11 pm

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Post by elfin girl Thu Sep 13, 2012 6:29 pm



Question Do you know how Google works? Took me 10 seconds Razz

clearly not! Laughing
nothing seems to be working how it should be round here Mad
the mesurements are the same as my new ones so it shouldnt be leaking then, im now totaly stumped, there are no cracks that i can see round the mouth of the rad opening the water is seeping out from under the cap, now im presuming if the pressure gets too high the then it would leak from out the top of the cap?
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Post by HighlyJetted Thu Sep 13, 2012 6:39 pm

daisydon wrote:

Question Do you know how Google works? Took me 10 seconds Razz

clearly not! Laughing
nothing seems to be working how it should be round here Mad
the mesurements are the same as my new ones so it shouldnt be leaking then, im now totaly stumped, there are no cracks that i can see round the mouth of the rad opening the water is seeping out from under the cap, now im presuming if the pressure gets too high the then it would leak from out the top of the cap?

Should never leak, should just overflow into the bottle.
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Post by elfin girl Thu Sep 13, 2012 6:51 pm

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Post by HighlyJetted Thu Sep 13, 2012 6:59 pm

Yeah that yellow pipe is where the gas goes into the engine to be burn't

The circle is where logi said there should be a "bleed nipple" but on these gas ones the coolant goes into the vaporizer.
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Post by elfin girl Thu Sep 13, 2012 7:06 pm

ok, so how do i bleed it then??!!!! shall i cut in somwhere there and put in my own???!!!! (dare i!!!)
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Post by d1noh Thu Sep 13, 2012 7:06 pm

mine has the lpg fitted so got a spare T bleed valve cut the pipe next to the lpg one so now I have 2 T pieces in one pipe but bleeding is a lot easier
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Post by HighlyJetted Thu Sep 13, 2012 7:20 pm

Tomorrow afternoon when I get back from college I am going to take my LPG hijet to bits and find out what is the probable cause of the overheating so I might be able to offer more useful guidance but don't hold your breath.
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Post by elfin girl Thu Sep 13, 2012 7:49 pm

HighlyJetted wrote:Tomorrow afternoon when I get back from college I am going to take my LPG hijet to bits and find out what is the probable cause of the overheating so I might be able to offer more useful guidance but don't hold your breath.


Very Happy

so im guess a botch job as long it doesnt leak is ok for a bleed valve, dont need anything in particular?
just wish i could figure out why its leaking at the rad cap, feel like im missing something vital that must be staring me in the face!
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Post by HighlyJetted Thu Sep 13, 2012 8:40 pm

take some digital photos with you camera or phone and post them up.

Show us the cap and the socket
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