Another bloody hijet but this time on LPG gas

I'll advertise it but no hurry at all.

Been out for a drive out this afternoon and it feels a totally different van, runs really quiet and smooth, plus its got it's power back. Might be to do with putting a standard exhaust on it instead of the stainless decat system though maybe. Looking at the old head gasket Cylinder 2 and 3 were leaking into each other so thus explaining the misfire and power loss.

On my next day off I'll give it another oil change as I just dropped the oil out and not the filter as it will have got water and bits of gasket in the oil when the head was taken off, plus put a set of wheels and tyres I've got in my garage which have almost full tread and refurnished rims.

All work is pretty much complete, oil is almost invisible when you dip it its that clean. Runs really nice and smooth, new tyres and rims make the steering feel nice and light. Next jobs are jet wash out the carpet from the back, fix the light behind the heater controls, and give it a full inside and out valet. She'll be a beauty! My mate is borrowing it for the next couple of weeks to make sure its fault free.

It does have some defects mind you, the rear heated windscreen is unfixable as the contacts have broke from the glass, I could change the glass over from the other van which I'm considering doing but then it won't be tinted. Also the back bumper is cracked at one end, and the drivers side sliding door has a dent, and the drivers side carpet has the usual wear hole in it.

Hi, Just read your comments about your busted rear window heater.
Check out ebay item 270800621033 which is for conductive wire glue.
Mine was broken too & I bought some of this stuff & it worked
perfectly! Just glued the connector on & when it was dried reinforced
with a blob of 2-part epoxy.
regards,
redneck

Now that's a good suggestion redneck

Found some in the UK here:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Conductive-Wire-Glue-Paint-Rapid-Fire-Mod-No-Solder-Adhesive-for-solar-panel-etc-/321027113798?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item4abeb50346

I've used silver saturated paint before to rejoin broken lines on the heated window, but it hadn't crossed my mind to use something like this.

Well appreciated for the idea mate!

Happy to be able to help.
best regards,
redneck

HJ if you buy that can I have some of the left over to do the rear van window as the tab has fallen off aswell but can I get a huge knock down in the price I think I'll order the stuff from the states if I can sell it for £739.

Doh maybe this one instead http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Conductive-Wire-Glue-Paint-NO-Soldering-Iron-Gun-Solder-UK-SELLER-/300833871914?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item460b18982a

I found one for £3.10 from hong kong same pic as the first one but other than that they are around the £7 mark still cheaper than a window.

Bit of topic but I put a watch on an ebay item at £56.99 When I next look it was priced at£ 569.90

rich the mechanic wrote:I found one for £3.10 from hong kong same pic as the first one but other than that they are around the £7 mark still cheaper than a window.

It'll be probably January 10th earliest to get a parcel over from kingkong at the moment. That's why I linked to the UK one.

For the record, the red overheating LPG hijet has done about 600 miles without losing a drop of water since the head job and it's got its power back. Runs like a nice little hijet should.

Well done Sir!

HighlyJetted wrote:For the record, the red overheating LPG hijet has done about 600 miles without losing a drop of water since the head job and it's got its power back. Runs like a nice little hijet should.

Yayyyyy, feels good don't it?

Barstuard thing is I haven't drove the damn thing once! I've lent it to my mate to run around in it over christmas.

Gets it off my drive and gives me a chance to have it tested out properly before I sell it. I couldn't sell something which I didn't know was properly tested good. And I can't change my insurance over to it without incurring 2 lots of £50 charges.

I could have just slapped it on ebay back in september when I MOT'd it with a vague description, but I'm not that kind of guy. I probably would have been better off money and time wise though!

Well its all gone tits up. Mates just rang me, went to see a mate right up the hills, on the crawl back to home temp gauge shot up then got steam coming up from the engine cover/handbrake area.

Pulled over checked the header bottle, pretty much empty. Radiator and hoses totally cold.

It's done about 500 miles or so trouble free, never lost a drip of water. He checked it this morning and it was perfect.

Very interesting.

Ohhhhh noooooooooo

On the subject of heated windows, I assume it has two wires connecting to it? Power and Return? I have two tabs on the window, but only one wire...

Yeah ones is a live feed, the other grounds it. With out the complete circuit it'll be pretty slow to demist!

Ohhhhh noooooo ohhhh nooooo (oh no oh no)

I wonder if there is some deep rooted cause to all of this.

I'm busy as hell for the next two weeks, then jet off to the alps for a little skiing, but after that I will investigate.

The symptoms almost say thermostat, but then the header tank would have filled with water. I think it's lost its water first, then over heated. Maybe going up and down the big climbs in the peak district have really tested it.

This is why I didn't want to just fix it and flog it, nothing in my eyes is truely fixed until its had a fair bit of hard testing. And I don't want to sell some "lovely new hijet forum member to be" a lemon.

Bummer Looked like you had it sussed as well.

Knowing the lad who I've lent it to he will have been thrashing it pretty hard. So its. A pretty good experiment

Hi, Do you still have the 1.3LPG. I bought one (2003) suposedly with a cam sensor problem but the resistance checks out ok at 220. Thought I would change the ecu several on ebay but do not match my code 89560-87532. Do you think this is because it is LPG?

Hello and welcome,

2003 is a later model version than the really early ones.

Tell me why you think it has a cam sensor issue?

What is actually wrong with it?

lizzyandbeth,

we have had someone come along with cam position sensor issues before so read this:-

https://hijet.forumotion.com/t1040-cam-sensor-issue-code-p0335

I would strongly suspect your ECU is fine by the way, it is often the first thing blamed by mechanics/garages, but rarely the new part that solves anyones problems.

I don't think to date we have had a single person post up here who has had a faulty hijet ECU. And in all my years of car fixing, I have only ever had 1 car where the ecu was faulty, which I actually repaired the ECU.

Hi thanks for getting back to me. It was being sold as nonrunner on the basis that it suddenly stopped whilst driving along and the AA diagnosed the cam sensor. They had fitted another 2nd hand sensor but no go so decided to sell it. I read your bit about linking the diagnosis terminals and reading the code from the flashing lights, thought simple and bought it only to find it had an ODB terminal and I did not have a scanner so am now guessing. Both cam sensors measure 220 ohm yet there is no spark. The ignitter has also been changed and I have fiddled with the battery terminals putting a big battery on it- no go, no spark. Thought I would try an ECU but mine seems to be quite rare.

Get under the back, where the leads go into the battery box, the connections rot causing problems. Worth checking first as one wire causes no spark, the other no power.
And invest in one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/U380-OBD2-OBD-2-Diagnostic-Fault-Code-Reader-Scanner-/320939422320?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4ab97af270

Also probably better starting a thread of your own

Hi Thanks, I did check the battery terminals etc to no avail as that seemed to be a well documented solution. Have ordered the scanner, (seems an obvious thing to do but was mesmerized by the array on sale). Will investigate a separate thread, do not know how these things work but was getting the feeling that I was hijacking Highly-Jetteds' love story about his van.

Good morning. The scanner I have is this one:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vgate-Scan-VS600-Any-Car-OBD2-EOBD-CAN-BUS-Fault-Code-Scanner-Reader-Tool-UK-/160828591859?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2572218ef3&_uhb=1

It does live data and has worked with every car I've tried it on, getting on for about 50 vehicles now.

Hijets will give you a cam sensor error if they have problems starting, but that's not to say its not the cam sensor or wiring.

With the scanner above, you will be able to read the code, reset all the error codes, then try again to see exactly what comes up first.

Does the engine warning light come on the dash board at all?

Where abouts are you in the UK?

I see you may have ordered a scanner, and I'm sure it will work perfectly.

Hi, I ordereda scanner, not knowing much about them I just bought a cheap one to get to know them but can see that the graphics as on yours might have been a better option. Yes the warning light is on. I am in Ironbridge, Telford.

Well if you still having problems when I get back from holiday in about 10 days I could actually drive down there as it's only about an hour and a bit away from crewe.

Fantastic its in a nice warm garage. I will hold off from selling it as I was starting to dispair. Bytheway I bought a manual for it but it does not match e.g. It shows link wire diagnostics, two coils on the cylinder hear, two socket ecu etc whereas mine has OBD, 4 coils in the plugs, four connectors to the ecu etc.