Another bloody hijet but this time on LPG gas

Result!
Youll be motd in no time

Noticed when digging about under mine theres a wee plug hanging, reckon if it sparks up the lamp myjet will have 2 foglamps

Just ordered the rear flexi pipe - £14.39 inc vat

HighlyJetted wrote:Just got my fail certificate:-

Fog light not working (not the bulb though)

Mine wasn't working and it was the wire in the tailgate at the top right side where it goes to the body...worth a check.

Ash, cheers for the pointer, my fog light issue was as simple as the connector plug on the back of the light was corroded, bit of a scratch off with the screw driver and it works perfect.

Now here's my rant:-

Why do people mess with stuff when they obviously have no idea what they are doing with it!!! Examples:-

previous owner had fitted one of those cold air feed things from halfords with a 2 inch pipe and a mini trumpet thing that goes into bumper - but while fitting that he had cable tied it to all the other pipes and wires down there - kinking the washer jet feed to the windscreen (good one mate!!)

The rear wiper didn't work, so after testing the switch and the motor it turns out there is no power to the motor, so again go digging and he had cut into the wiring to fit a light in the back of the van, causing the rear wiper power feed to no longer work.

Also when I first got it the battery would go flat in 3 or so days, turns out he'd fitted a key pad immobiliser thing which had a big fat relay in the system which drained power continuously! Good immobiliser mate! No one can drive it anywhere

The guy I bought it off seemed to be a really nice guy, and claimed to work on sports cars or something.

All i'm trying to do is put the van back to how it was supposed to be, swapping bits over from my parts van, tidying up any botched bits. Then after the MOT retest I'm going to take it to a mate of a mate in tyre garage and get him to swap the tyres that are on it over to the compomotives Then I can take it on a track day I've been told about in october

p.s. I hope its a rainy track day!!

HighlyJetted wrote:


I have this theory that I have a tiny air leak somewhere because I have not lost any fluid throughout these warm up cool down cycles as I have drawn a line on the header tank bottle, and when I replace the air gap in under the rad cap with water from the header tank I end up back at the line. I get good pressure in the system when its hot, so it would seem to be pretty pressure tight-ish. What I think happens is this:-

Engine warms up, cooland gets pushed out to the bottle with expansion.
Engine cools, water contracts, pulling air through a tiny hole somewhere.
I put the water back into the system from header tank. Back round the cycle I go.

Heres hoping anyway

This seems to be where I'm at at the moment, I'm not denying the chance the air is getting sucked in via a pipe connection somewhere but am concentrating on the new caps at the moment as they are definitely not quite the right size, when you turn off the ignition if you listen closely under the passenger seat can you hear the air being sucked in as it cools?

Good plan, get everything bang on right before moving onto the next item otherwise you just end up flicking about not knowing where your at.

Logi wrote:Noticed when digging about under mine theres a wee plug hanging, reckon if it sparks up the lamp myjet will have 2 foglamps

It does we have had twin fogs for ages there is even a bracket to bolt it to this is a multi market body only the fog needs to be drivers side.

Sure does have the extra plug on the passenger side Rich! Seen it with my own eyes while crawling underneath it doing this brake hose a few minutes ago

Anyhooooo, ready for a fail moment?

Just changed my rear brake flexi hose, thinking I can't see anything wrong with the old one.

Come back in after finishing the job, re-read the fail sheet:-

"Offside rear (flexible hose to compensator) brake pipe excessively corroded [3.6.B.2c]"

What a dick! It means the bloody metal brake pipe between the flexi and the load compensator valve. What a waste of a new hose and my time and effort. I'll make one (means my dad will make one for me) tomorrow night and get it fitted.

I'm not angry, I just feel like a 3.5 brain celled fuktard

Strangely enough i just changed the very same pipe

Do you still want that bump stop?

Aye

Can't help you with bump stops old timer, both of them are missing of the van in the garden.

If your really desperate I can take one on of the pickup in the garage but I'd prefer not to though as I'll have to then replace it further down the line.

Matt. Pick up Plates/bump stop will not fit the van, Dino

No worries, its not essential, i'll keep an eye out in the scrappies & Ebugger

d1noh wrote:Matt. Pick up Plates/bump stop will not fit the van, Dino

Cheers for the Heads up Dino

Done the coolant refill this evening, I have tried a new method this time as suggested by 8bit-ash:-

First Bleed the system properly, I know this one will have been said a load of times but I found the best way was to make a tube with a funnel on top with a rubber bung that fitted in the filling hole under the seat. Once you've filled the front rad hole use the tube to make sure the system is fully bled by holding it higher than the matrix with the engine running and coolant filled up to the funnel.

Although I replaced the funnel with a watering can, and the rubber bung with a bit of rubber pipe which fitted very tightly into the filler cap neck snug. I've made up a pretty strong mix of anti-freeze, and I used the pink/red stuff as recommended by Daihatsu.

Firstly I parked the van pointing up hill, with some wooden blocks under the front wheels to help get the front end up high.

I connected a 1.5 metre piece of hosepipe to the end of a watering can, then I slipped this nice rubber pipe over the end of the hose pipe, and rammed that into the filler cap under the passenger seat, put the watering can on its side on top of the open sliding door. Then delegated my missus to making sure the watering can never ran out of coolant mix.

I then opened the rad cap under the bonnet till coolant came out,
then split the pipe T joint under the driver seat, to let a load flow through from the engine (heater on cold + pipe clamp on the lpg feed)
then split the pipe T joint again this time without the pipe clamp on the LPG vapouriser
then I split the pipe T joint again, this time with the clamp on the LPG vapouriser and the heaters on hot
then I pulled the little pipe off the top neck of the radiator
then I clamped the little pipe on the rad while I opened the rad cap again
then I redid the pipe T joint splitting procedure above, doing each pipe one by one with the clamp
The redid the radiator can and side exit pipe as above.

I then took the hose pipe out of the filler cap, and gave the pipes a bit of a squeeze to see if any air came out, there was none.
So I reconnected the hose pipe/watering can and got all the air out of the pipe by putting the watering can on top of the door again, and I pushed a screwdriver down the side of where i'd force the pipe into the filler neck to make sure there was no air in the pipe.
Then I started the engine and let it run for a few minute, squeezing all the hoses. Although I turned it off before the temp gauge came up much not wanting to over heat the fluid without the pressure cap in place.

Then I filled the header tank, topped up the filler cap, put the cap on and started it up.
Waited for the fan to kick in a couple of times, and took it for a quick ride round the block.

I am now waiting on it cooling down to check the results.

Just been out to check on it now its cooled down and I have an air gap under the radiator cap, replaced it with coolant so I'll run it again tomorrow to see how it goes. I'd expect to get some air coming to the top after running it for the first time after a coolant refill, but lets see if I keep going round in this circle Fingers crossed....

Rear brake pipe made up by my wonderful Dad and fitted this afternoon.

Also sorted out the dodgy connection on the reversing light!

After another warm up and cool down with a quick rip round I have an air pocket again, refilled it and will try again tomorrow, although I seem to be ending up with less water in the header tank after topping up, so here's hoping that it's just bleeding the air out now.

Ace! Not the LPG hijet has an MOT certificate

Its still getting an air pocket under the filler cap every time it runs

But now its got MOT it can have a proper hard road test to try and get a proper gas test on the go.

HighlyJetted wrote:Ace! Not the LPG hijet has an MOT certificate

Result

Part of me is thinking about taking the 1.6 engine out of my pickup and putting it in this red LPG van Between me and my dad we could do it in a short day.

So after the success with the white van I thought I'd have a play with the red one again today. Y'know a little bit wiser and all that.

Then pulled the thermostat housing off to find this!





Think its a lump of some kind of rad weld or instant gasket maybe? Not sure but its rock hard. I found more of this stuff under the thermostat too. So I took the old thermostat out which looked like this:-



The rubber was all falling apart and it was totally coated in the rad weld crap, so I ditched it and fitted a new one. It was also fitted the wrong way round again like the last one!?! People are retarded man.

But before I fitted it, I put the thermostat housing back on empty, then connected the hose pipe upto it, and ran loads of water thought the system both ways round. Then on the other end of the cylinder head there is a metal plate which you can take off, so pulled it off and then just ran water through the head for a bit, then downwards through the block by bunging up the top hose. Loads of crud came out. So then I washed out the heater matrix and the radiator again.

Now i've put it all back together, then filled it back up with coolant and done the bleed cycle on it. I'm not getting the little bubbles and froth like last time. Only time will tell. Wait for it to cool back down, top it up, warm it up and take it for a drive again, then cool it back down and see what happens hey.

HighlyJetted wrote:

It's a pork scratching !!!

Unfortunately I've binned it but I would have saved it for you yom yom yom crack!

What I do is the following from empty, drained and flushed:-

Before I drain it I park it like the above picture
Then I fill it up with a diy header tank on the roof of the van connected to the filler point under the drivers seat
I disconnect the side pipe off the top of the radiator, putting a bung in the hose
First I open the radiator cap to fill that up
Then I part the hoses under the drivers seat to fill the LPG vaporiser, the heater matrix and the block - all one by one
Then I pull my bung out of the pipe under the grill which was fitted before
Then I pull the little pipe that goes from the thermostat to the top pipe, getting any air out of the thermostat housing
Then I put a clamp on the big pipe that goes to the thermostat housing, and squeeze the top pipe and bottom pipe to agitate any air from the thermostat
Then I give everything a damn good squeezing for a bit
Then I go back to the radiator, get any air out the top via the cap
And redo all the hoses under the drivers seat one by one - brake pipe clap etc helps with this again
Part the little hose on the thermostat housing
pull the bung under the bonnet again, but this time reconnect it back up when done

OK!

So then I remove the header tank setup
And I replace it with a funnel (mines made out of a bottle with the bottom cut off and some hose in the bottle neck which fits the filler point inner)
So I fill the funnel up about 1/4 of the way
Get any air out my squeezing the hoses

Now I start the engine, keep the heaters on cold to speed up the warm up game
Now keep squeezing pipes everywhere you can, you'll get loads of air bubbles come back up the funnel
(make sure the funnel never runs dry) This running with the funnel takes about 30 minutes

When the vast majority of the air is out, remove the funnel and put the cap back on and turn off the engine.

Now when its fully cooled down (4 hours seems to work at the moment) Take of the cap and top it back up.
Give all the pipes a squeeze with the cap off, and start it up.
If you don't get any air then get the cap back on and take it for a drive - throw it round some corners and bumps etc, plenty of heavy braking
Get it back home and drive it back onto the ramps as pictured above.
Let it cool back down for 4 hours
Take the cap back off and top it up, expect only a little bit required

Now drive it as normal, but everytime you get chance when it's fully cooled take the cap back off and check it and top the little bit up after you do this 4 or 5 times you should get zero air gap. If you don't you've either not bled it correctly or you have a problem.

Might seem like a lot of work and messing about, but I can't come up with anything better yet.

Lovin yer hi tech ramps......

I had 2 pairs of those angle iron type ones, but they were getting a bit too rotten for comfort plus they always sunk into the gravel/mud. I was scared they would cause me an expensive or painful mistake so I weighed them in for scrap while I was having a big clear out of my brass and copper collection just before christmas last year to help fund the old festive wallet raping.

Well it's nearly done, rebuilt head is back on now, and all I have to do to finish it off is a few cosmetics like seats and centre trim. Hope it runs good after this lot!

This one has been maintained beautifully, blatantly had very regular oil changes as the engine is like new inside, plus new belts and recent plugs - but after 80k miles there was quite a bit of valve lash so to all you other owners I'd recommend doing the tappets if you can. It might turn out to run as smooth as my white one - we'll see hey

Also as it was running a big rough the guy I bought it off has bought a brand new pair of coil packs for it. So hopefully a good spark plus a good squeeze means a good old bang

Shame I'm about to try and sell it at the worst time of year for cars.

<Shame I'm about to try and sell it at the worst time of year for cars.>

HJ do you need to try and sell it now? I would be tempted to hand on for a couple of months