Another year

the little beastie passed its MOT yesterday but it did need
a bit of welding and a new back box this year!

Excellent result

Not a bad result - at least you didn't have to have the fuel tank out for brake pipe renewal!

in the past it has needed the front calipers
looking at but not this time-didnt cost much or
she was going to the scappy

Yes that is always a bonus for a year.
My own 2003 MPV Dual Fuel failed on both front to rear rusty brake pipes. They rust above the Petrol Tank.

So it was Tank out, loom unclipped, gas pipe moved, LPG Manifold feed removed, Air Filter Assembly removed. I had to remove the Alternator and pulleys too as fitted a brand new 100amp Alternator and Grand Move Polyvee Pulleys and Belt. I also fitted both front Struts with ones from a 2008 electric Porter Pick-Up with 9 coil springs instead of the standard 8 coil ones.
New Discs and Pads, new Wheel Cylinders and Brake Shoes.
The LSPV valve I fitted a new spring to the Push Rod off the Axle and fitted a slotted bracket to the axle so that the Push Rod could be moved up by a maximum of 65mm I have lot of weight in the back with my huge tool box and the LPG Tank full is pretty weighty too. The result?? The Mot Inspector who did the test could not believe the Brake readings.

The brakes are so much better than before - it's almost as good as ABS Brakes.
Certainly the best brakes I have ever experienced on a Hi-Jet.

Doing the brake lines was a bit of a NIGHTMARE. I got both the lines off, made up one flared end and then using Copper Brake Pipe I bent the pipe to the shape of the old one and on every bend and straight I used Cable ties to hold it all to the shape of the the Steel Pipe. My Brainwave worked a treat. It is very fiddly re-fitting the one that goes right from back to front as at the front it is right up under the bumper. The other pipe joins underneath where I took the air filter out. Still a pain in the Butt. But got it all on and clipped the bodywork and cable tied and clipped the loom and Gas Pipe. One hell of a load of work - but the end result is worth it all.

I start the bleeding process at the O/S/F wheel and then the N/S/F and finally the rear N/S Nipple. I made up a Self Bleeding Tube from Vacuum Pipe off an old Inlet Manifold and blocked one end with a 6mm bolt and just above the bolt cut a 15mm slit with a Stanley Knife. This acts as a valve and also the weight of the bolt keeps the Tube in the expelled fluid in the jam jar. Simple but very effective and didn't cost a bean.

Next job on the Eternal List is to fit the extra heavy duty leaf springs from the Electric Porter Pick-Up. Then the Front Track Control Arms extended 25mm to increase the tracking by a couple of inches to improve the handling.
Well that is enough for tonight. Need some more grub - plus gotta be up at 5am for my regular 4 mile morning walk. Its enough for me. My Son is doing the 26 mile Walk The Wight this coming Sunday and tried to persuade me to do it as well. WHAT?? At 69?
I may be stupid - but not that stupid to be having a months holiday at the courtesy of the NHS at best - being cooked in a wooden box at worst. No you carry on Stewart. He is going to join me on my walk next Wednesday morning. So at least we can go into Ventnor for a cooked breakfast at the Ocean Blue on the Front. Raggy knows it well. Best value breakfast on the Isle of Wight.

Tell me more about the TCA Mod Wooddie sounds interesting

You will need 2 track control arms for each side - one with a good inner Metalastic Bush and the other with a good Ball joint. I am fortunate enough to have a DeWalt Metalwork Chopsaw with a 12" Cutting Disc.

The one with a good Ball joint you cut right alongside the Tie Rod - which for instruction purposes we will say is 45° It isn't but no matter.

Then the Track Control Arm with the good Bush you cut at exactly the same angle and cut the Ball Joint off. You then have the Ball Joint with the maximum amount of length to weld onto the other TCA that is also cut off to the maximum length. It gives you roughly 30-35 mm increase in length that way. But ideally you need 25mm so cut the TCA with the good bush accordingly.
You then obviously need to weld the two pieces together. To keep the ball joint cool wrap it up in soaking wet cloth to stop the heat melting the grease in the ball joint.

Then with the TCA upside down you ideally should weld some meaty pipe in the U shaped channel to give it extra support. Once again being careful to keep the TCA Ball Joint cool.

If you go over 25mm then you will have to cut two Steering Rods and join them for the increase in length.

With extending the TCA by just 25mm there is safely enough threads left to unscrew the Taper Ball joints to increase them 12mm each end. Remember too that they are left and right hand threads on the Steering Rods.

When I get around to it I will post up some photos of the Job. Might get it done by Christmas.

Understood, thought there may be a secret longer arm you fitted
Thanks @woodey