Heating not working

Hi after getting the garage to do the head gasket,coolant temp sensor,oil filter,spark plugs,timing belt,water pump, thermostat kit, I now have no heat just blowing out cold air, I’ve checked coolant level and radiator water which is fine , so what problem is causing no heating?
If the weather was warm I wouldn’t mind so much!
But the heating was working when I bought !!

Any one of these : heater matrix blocked, air lock in heater matrix or hot / cold control valve not operating on the heater unit. Set your heater control to hot and run the engine. Both pipes on the heater unit should be the same temperature.

Also, make sure heather not set to body, that’s only fresh air, heat is only screen or feet.

Oh ok didn’t know that will try again.
Such a strange little machine I am finding out.
On Saturday there was a gust of wind that sent me heading for the ditch ,
I held tight and it came back but I felt like I was trying to land a small aircraft not that I’ve ever been a pilot .

There are specific instructions for bleeding system do not follow at your peril they seem strange but !!!
some one will point you in the correct direction soon

I think I’ve been having a mid life crisis and the hijet is a bit to much for me after the whole cost of it,the handling in wind and having a young child on board .
But all is not lost we have a campsite less than a mile from home and can make use of it as a day van going to local park with bike in the back and picnic this summer then sell later in the year.
All of the older motor homes /campers have the same issues with seat belts and mechanical malfunctioning so I’m not blaming the hijet at all, I’m sure we will still have a blast and enjoy campervaning locally, which is probably best with child and dog to look after.

Glad to report we are puttering around nicely and yes raggy the heat is working on the screen and feet settings like you said and then nice cool air from the fans which is great as the sun is hotting up now .

Do not turn the slider to cool on a hijet... always keep the knob towards the red.

When the knob is pointing blue, it stops the bypass route via the thermostat which makes it highly likely for the thermostat to not open, then causing over heating.

Hey Guys
I’m new on here . I have always been interested in these trucks so I bought one. However I am almost ready to just call it quits. Cannot find anyone around me to work on them . So I bought this truck owner told me that he had had the motor rebuilt and it appears so. Here goes….. I bought the truck and drove it about 20 miles . It begin overheating and I would pull off and let it cool down . Come to find out the ac condenser was clogged and I couldn’t see it . So onto next issue . After I got it home it did not have any power and rough idle . So I begin to go through it best I knew how and research. I am very mechanically inclined and can figure most out . There is not a whole lot of literature on these so if anyone has any please let me know. Motor appears rebuilt and tight. I started by looking at cylinder fire found misfires everywhere. Tested coils and found secondary was about done on all obviously rebuilt motor buy new coils right but no… used the old ones. . It appears he replaced the wiring harness also for some reason . I replaced 3 plugs the coils. Still when I pushed gas or put it under load bogged down NO POWER! Checked fuel pressure running 28 to 34 replaced fuel pump now running 38 to 40 ish . Truck still same thing better but same crap . Pulled timing cover . Timing 1 tooth off . Set timing . Runs little better actually 50 % better . Anyways with the timing set. Found catalytic converter and muffler stopped almost completely. Have just pulled it off for now . Will get fixed after find main issue . At this point I am getting beyond aggravated . Moving on truck running 75% better but still have issues with dead spot in the throttle and not a whole lot of power. Have 3 cylinders firing so I check the throttle position sensor. Starts at .9 and goes to like 4 .0 or something dead spot around 2.0 to 3.5 then clears up rpms go up fine . Just replaced throttle position sensor what a pain in the rear ! Adjusted it best I know how and now I can move it and it still has a dead spot no matter we’re I adjust it !!!??? I have not tested voltage on the new one yet but don’t think I have a bad one. What is causing this dead spot and why diminished power under load? Does have a check engine light but MY SCANNER WONT READ IT ?? Any advise on that? Also this guy put some type of aftermarket intake breather on it and it appears the old one used to run through the frame . I have absolutely no literature to follow. Also out of the top of the throttle there were 2 vacuum lines Capped OFF? I traced 2 dangling lines found that one went to head and put it on the one that made it run better I am just guessing at this point . The other I don’t know were it goes but has a cap on it and my 4wd appears to have a loose hose that goes somewhere. It’s late I’m very tired I have spent 3 weekends working on this truck I’m so tired I hope this all makes sense please help.!!!! Also just changed the oil and smelled like gas ?

Well that’s quite a write up and well done for going through all the problems so far. Sounds like the engine may have been ‘rebuilt’ but to what extent we have no idea as you have found. Can’t offer any suggestions other than join the Daihatsu Hijet and Piaggio Porter owners on Facebook as well, files sections there with lots of information. You don’t mention what exact type of Hijet you have as there are plenty of versions also depending where you are in the world. Keep at it and don’t give up, would be a shame after all the work you have put in so far. With you saying there was air con I suspect you are in the USA?

It must have a fuel pressure regulator on the end of the fuel rail, make sure this has a vac line present.

It is probably bogging out due to not sensing the load condition due to the above, or TPS issue.

I think you can make the engine warning light flash out the fault codes on these by shorting out these pins in the OBD connector (maybe?!)



What that Japanese text (sort of) says:-

Translates wrote:
Engine control system

9-3-3 Confirmation, recording and erasure of diagnostic code

If the diagnostic error code is displayed, is the system malfunction caused in the past?
It is necessary to confirm whether it is still ongoing and to confirm the relationship with the reproduced defect. for that
Must display the diagnosis code twice before and after confirming the phenomenon.
(1) Diagnosis code confirmation
⑳ ① Display by engine check tuck lamp

Check the diagnosis codes with the Ignition switch "ON". SST between the connector terminals T and E (⑤ ~ ⑬).
Short-circuit pin 5 to pin 13, the engine check lamp in the instrument cluster will blink fault code numbers.

My awful translation of the flashing engine warning light fault code meanings wrote:

18 Knock sensor signal system disconnection | When the signal from the knock sensor is slowed down

21 02 Sensor signalling system | When an abnormality occurs in the lambda signal from the sensor

41 Throttle sensor signal | When an abnormality occurs in the signal from the throttle sensor

42 Water temperature sensor signal system | an abnormality has occurred in the signal from the water temperature sensor

44 Air Conditioner Evaporator | Evaporator Temperature Cesisa-When an outbreak occurs in the signal of the meter

51 Idle Switch signal system With terminal short circuit

52 Abnormality occurred from the vehicle speed sensor

71 No TSC motor system When there is an abnormal signal input to the SC motor

72 Sendless stem learning waiver system | RCU, system after throttle body replacement When initial learning fails

You want to look at this:-
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-EU12aMwyzOX2xlWnk1UDFoejg/view?usp=sharing&resourcekey=0-41Jwbgr36C0NXy1QyRPu4A

IG1 + 2 + 3 = ignition igniter
FC = fuel pump relay
#10 20 30 = Injectors
ALT = Alternator
RFAN = cooling fan
MGC = Magnetic clutch for A/C
W = Warning Light
IDL = throttle idle sensing switch (e.g. not a throttle position sensor)
ISCO + ISCC = Idle control solenoid motor
N+ N- = Crank/Cam sensor
KNK = Knock sensor
PST = Power steering hydraulic pressure switch
OX = Lambda
E01 E1 E2 = Ground
BAT B1 B2 = 12v power supply
VC + VTH = Throttle position sensor
THW = Temperature sensor
E21 + ACEV = Air con sensor
SPD = Speed sensor
REV + T + VF + SIO = To the ODB2 connector
HL = Rear Brake lights input
DEF = Some kind of input for sensing/enabling the Defogger/heated window
ASCW  = Some kind of input for sensing/enabling the Aircon
BLW = Some kind of input for sensing the blowers/ac fan is running

It does actually have a proper Throttle position sensor, and you can see the voltage output on the graph above... so you need to make sure it works properly as it is almost 50% in control of the fuel injection quantity control. It does have a pressure regulator on the end of fuel rail which much be connected to the manifold vacuum, so that it raises the fuel pressure in correlation to the manifold vacuum, which is its other 50% of its fuelling control system.

Throttle position sensor has 5v supply, Ground, and the signal wire - it should go from near 0v to 5v at max throttle give or take 0.5 volt at a guess. At 1/3 open throttle  it should give 3.4 volts.

From what I can see there is no MAP/Vacuum sensor.

Simple test will tell you if it is running lean while rev'ing up... e.g. spray something flammable down the intake while it is struggling! If the extra fuel cures the problem then its running too lean for some reason.

With such a simple EFI system like this, if the rising rate fuel pressure regulator is working, the TPS working correctly, the ignition and valve timing set about right, Lambda sensor functional..... then it should run as designed in theory.