Where can I get a radiator fan switch?

Hi,
So far I have: Replaced rad caps and checked thermostat, replaced hose clips, flushed (pretty clean system) and refilled with red coolant and bled system.
The fan works when I short it but won't kick in when up to temperature so I guess that points to the radiator fan switch, however I don't seem to be able to get one from any of the local parts people or find one online.
Where's best to find one please? (It's a 1.3 16v Efi)

as long as it looks the same and switches at right temp then anyone will do. You get the same con with temp sensors on household boilers, they almost almost the same part no matter which manufacturer. Try a charade/ terios etc just makes sure it looks the same and from same engine.

Thanks for that. Just been looking at other posts and thinking along similar lines. All the Terios switches seem to be M16 - am I right in thinking that I need M22 for a '98 vehicle?

Just in case?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DAIHATSU-HIJET-JI-JET-1-0-VAN-PICK-UP-1986-NEW-FAN-SWITCH-/121589344115?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Model%3AHijet&hash=item1c4f4a2773

Ask the seller if he has one but maybe the same?

Is the bottom hose hot? If not then the fan will not kick in. Ever...

All good. Met up with Woody yesterday - what a thoroughly nice man he is - and now have a switch to fit. One of the few and unexpected advantages (apart from the sun, sea, beaches, glorious countryside and empty roads of course) of living on the Isle of Wight.

Nice one Woody

Changed switch - still no fan. Cleaned relay connections - I have a fan!!
It kicks in with the gauge about two thirds of the way up the scale; seems a bit high to me but wouldn't surprise me to find out this is normal for a hijet. Is this normal for a hijet?

That sounds about right to me. They do vary though - 1 of mine rarely gets over 20% of the way over the gauge - another is usually at about 80%. Reckon it depends on what temp thermostat opens at. As long as it's consistent though I wouldn't worry - just watch for it climbing over 3/4 in your case.

I still advocate putting a fan switch in the circuit. I know we have had this should we /shouldn't need to argument time and time again but in hot weather conditions particularly if you put the fan on as soon as you are in slow or stationery traffic and you put the fan on the water is being kept cool.
And so are you and not panicking, looking at the gauge and not concentrating on the Pillock in front and not due to have a Panic attack as the temperature gauge goes skywards.
I have cut and modified the Coin Holder in the handbrake console and put a bright red illuminated rocker switch on it then you only have to run the two wires 12" straight to the two smaller wires on the Fan Relay which is under the Passenger seat right by the Coolant Filler Cap. Simples !!! And of course it is ignition switched automatically so no flat batteries when you stop and lock up.
I showed Keith G what I had done with my MPV.
It in my opinion Prevention is better than Cure. It is better to be able to turn the fan on and keep the water cool rather than fight a loosing battle when the water is scorching hot. Plus as I have said, you can concentrate on your driving, not the temperature gauge.

Thanks for the reassurance PFM. At the moment the system seems in pretty good nick and, with the sort of driving I'm doing in this vehicle(commutes to work, local trips, nothing much over an hour at a time on generally open roads) I think I'm pretty much sorted; it doesn't get an opportunity to get too hot. I have seen Woody's solution and it is a neat and simple one, which makes a lot of sense if your driving is urban, all day, or stop start. I may give it a try if things change when the proper summer weather kicks in.

I have the 1l 1994 hijet. I have the same problem. I thought i figured out it must be the switch because the radiator gets really hot and shorting the switch makes the fan go. But you say the culprit was a relay. In the wiring diagramm i dont see a relay. Is there a relay in the 1L version, too?

PS.: Just found out there is definitely no relay in the 1l Version. So do you have a spare switch you can send me, to germany   ? Just name a price

TIA Chris

You don't need to have a special switch. Ideally an oblong rocker switch to fit in the lower dash alongside rear wiper switch.

It will need to be fairly meaty to supply the full current to the Fan Motor.

Yeah right. I will measure the current and install appropriate wiring und switch. But Nonetheless I am searching for original part to replace my broken Thermo Switch in the long run. Keith said you provided him with a spare one but that it wasnt even the culprit so i thought he could send me the spare one. Its partnumber  83430-87Z02-000 and would cost me 70 Euro new from piaggio. But I would never pay that much. I go for manual override instead untill i find a cheap solution/replacement. Tonight I will clean contacts and make the lady boil again to see if maybe that can fix the issue.


PS BTW.: Problem is: Fan comes on for a couple of seconds and then stops while coolant temperature still rising and radiator being completely hot.

PPS.: just talked to the local daihatsu man and he can provide the part for 21 Euro.... problem solved. I will get me the original part. Sorry to bother all of you and thanks for the advice. I will maybe put together an overheating troubleshoot and bleeding video guide for the 993cc version soon so stay tuned.

TY

They generally only cut in for 10 to 15 seconds at a time when stationary. I have the large green 3 terminal Sender Units in stock. hi.jetmaniow@gmail.com

woody wrote:They generally only cut in for 10 to 15 seconds at a time when stationary.

OK mine kicked in only for about 5 seconds but temprature was not significantly falling and afterwards rising again but fan didnt come on again while temp gauge sitting just before the "H" mark.
I will exchange thermo switch as soon as i get it on friday hopefully so i can rule that out. I am still pretty sure it will fix my issues.

I will keep you posted

Check to see if your temp gauge is telling the truth for a start.

Just point an IR thermometer at the top hose to see the running temperature.

Thermostat opens at about 78 degrees.

Fan kicks in typically with a head water temperature of 98 degrees.

The switch temperature is embossed into the side of the brass spanner head.

Fixed it! Got part from my local Daihatsu dealer. Did a hot swap without completly draining the system. Just refilling at the radiatior after changing the part. Everythoing works great. Pretty hard to get it to 3/4 gauge where fan kicks in. Then fan stays on untill 1/2 gauge and safely kicks in again at 3/4 gauge again. Didnt measure temps of hose with IR Thermometer (will do next time!) but fan works.

Hot Air comes quickly after cold start. Then came long time idling in the hot sun at 3000rpm with heating off. Finally thermostat opened and upper hose and complete radiator getting nice and hot. All that was already case before changing thermo switch but then. Tadaaaa: Fan kicked in shortly after that for about 15 seconds not stopping untill 1/2 gauge.

I am quite happy, now. I bought this car in good nick but with overheating problem. Turned out it was only the radiator cap  leading to air in the system, leading to thermo switch failiure at last. Or maybe broken thermo switch leading to broken radiator cap gasket leading to air in coolant and complete failiure of the system. I am not sure in what order. The previous owner had already bought head gasket set, so i have that in stock now for a future repair.   Car ran 75000 km. Chassis has no rust and has new galvanized exaust. Only the leave springs are a bit rusty but i will take care of that. Cockpit and seats and wheels are in very good condition.
Tomorrow I get my licence plates.  Now comes new Laquor and rust prevention.  

Thanks for your support!

 Good news

HighlyJetted wrote:
Thermostat opens at about 78 degrees.

Thanks for information. My thermostat opens at 88° C. The one that was in there before also did. It has a temperature mark on it. But its a replacement part and the old one properbly was, too. How do you know the original part opens at 78°? If that info is valid i will certainly get the original thermotat to replace my replaced one.


PS: I just see the temperature of thermo switch is embossed into spanner head like you said: 93/88. So my 88° thermostat should be OK because on hot days motor will run above 88 easyly anyway. If that would be too much engineers would have chosen a lower value for thermo switch to prevent boiling of water jaket. But i will keep an eye on that cooling system for sure.

HighJ wrote:Fixed it! Got part from my local Daihatsu dealer.

.
Tomorrow I get my licence plates.  Now comes new Laquor and rust prevention.  

Don't count the glory too soon with a Hijet coolant system.

Only when you've done 500 miles of mixed driving will you really find out.

Make sure you mark the coolant bottle with a true cold level, them monitor the coolant for a few months.

Worst stress test for a hijet seems to be hitting stop start traffic after running down the motorway for ages.

You are right. I count the glory too soon. I will do about 20k km a year.  Normally i drive motorway at night 300km a week and daily 10 minute comuting as well. Will add a couple of rounds around the block after the motorway here and there to make sure she can cope with it.

 .: Got my plates yesterday and did the first ride for about 20 minutes. Everything looked OK. temp at half gauge. Then i stoped the motor at petrol station and she started pushing water into expansion tank and from there on ground and some bubbles appeard in the tank. Temp suddenly just before the High mark When running motor bubbles appear in the radiator as well. Like when bleeding but it doesnt stop but gets more when she gets hotter.

Now I am not very sure but the bubbles properbly did smell a bit like exaust gas    but again i am not 100% sure yet! I filled her up with fresh water and did a tiny bit of bleeding. Then i did another 15 minute ride. And she stayed at half gauge. Looking at the expanision tank while motor running it stayes at normal level. But after stopping for two minutes and then starting again she had boiled again. I need more testing. Maybe it is the head gasket / seal or other gasket in some how. Maybe just bad cooling system engineering Thing is i didnt bleed the system very well after replacing the thermo switch. Gonna do some testing later on. The story continues. What do you suggest? First of all i will install a manual override to chill her down a bit before turning off the motor to prevent boiling when motor stops. Look if that can fix everything.

BTW.: There is no water in oil and no oil in water and she doesnt produce any smoke at the exaust. No foam appearing @ the cap.

Is the bottom hose hot?

yeah it think bottom hose gets hot first but i will check again.

Was the fan working? If the system airlocks the bottom hose stays cold, stat doesn't open, engine gets toasty, fan switch never comes on as it's on the bottom hose.
If you're lucky, it's losing water somewhere and has airlocked, my old one did it on the way back from York. 


If you're unlucky it's HG time

Read HJ's bleeding guide, well worth following.

I added the manual switch but it doesnt help. I was "bleeding" the bloody system for an hour but it wont stop bubbeling and smells like exaust gas. Water level in the funnel where i fill in doesnt fall but bubbles keep coming non stop. it is just non stop bubbeling. So when you ride her she blows these bubbles into the expansion tank along with lots of coolant. but after some time only air come out of it continuously non stop.

I think its the head gasket.

PS. Bottom Hose gets hot after thermostat opens.  Just after the temperate gauge rises 0.1 inch above the 1/2 mark.

PPS.: half way convinced i have to replace HG. Firstly ordering new thermostat gasket and replacing hose clips.... and having another smell at the bubbles today

PPPS.: bubbles smell like gasoline not really exaust. How can that be? I have removed most of the tubing and radiator. Will clean everything again. Especially the connection to the water pump was terribly gunked up. Properbly leak sealer. A thick layer. Sanded it down to the metal pipeing. Also ordered original thermostat gasket the old one was in very bad condition. Bought some stainless hose band clips. Bad thing the thermostat gasket wont arrive before tuesday. But i still have a spare paper seal for now. Properbly put it back together tomorrow