Pulsing brakes

Pulled in for fuel this afternoon. set off again & at the next roundabout i put foot on the brake pedal 1/2 way down & i feel a pulsating.
i cant hear any chafing or squeaking when it does it, cant head anything when not using the brakes.
Usually pulsing brakes to me = warped disk.
I do have a full set of brake pads/shoes in my shed.
i know the rear handbrake does stick when sat for a day, been doing that for mooooonths.

Any ideas if it isnt a warped disk?

Could be the ABS cutting in.............  

 

An oval drum might give a similar pedal feel - or maybe the servo is heading for retirement???

I'd check all 4 corners over, starting with the sticking rear - especially as you have spare linings on the shelf if needed.

Jack the front up and check like you would for loose wheel bearings if the hub comes loose like it did on ours the disc and hub wobbles on the mounting shaft and knocks the pads back just like a warped disc it's only got to move a very small bit on the splines to do it eventually it wears the wheel/disc hub to big and it will need replacing.

Check your wheel nuts too!

Will have a look at it this weekend.
This morning started out normal, no weird feeling. 25miles later I start to feel it again.
I do a lot of duel carriageway with not much braking at the start/end.

FrontBackSide2Side wrote:Check your wheel nuts too!

wheel and disc bolt seperatly to the hub and I recon bearings or loose nut on the end it sounds just like ours did and there have been a few others it has happened to Woody is the only one I can name though.

Sounds about right. Normally the passenger side wheel bearing on hijets that fails for some odd reason. Give wheels a damn good shake around from the top of the tyre.

van up on axle stands tomorrow to have a look.

"loose nut on the end"= the big nut with a locking wire on the front hubs?

As some know i have lost fuel range the last 2-3 months.. so will be looking for a stuck pad/shoe too..

leopard_pagan wrote:
"loose nut on the end"= the big nut with a locking wire on the front hubs?

Yep thats the one.

Thanks
I released the brake fluid cap saturday AM.....
no more pulsating brakes/pedal!!!.... & not for the want o testing it too!

Front brake pads have loads of meat in em, clean, no lip on disks.
Rear brakes........ Passenger side looks ok. Drivers side....

You're weeping, LP. Did you check the breather hole in the resevoir cap?

Nope, but that might explain why it overflows when I top up fluid to just under the top line!
I obviously have topped up fluid every 2-3 months as brake light pops on.

Woody: pic below. It's the top line that is twisting when we tried to loosen the top nut ready for replacement slave cylinder arrives.

What you do is point a blow torch at them and make it all get nice and hot.

Then you spray some WD-40 or whatever (I like plus gas) to cool it off.

Then heat it up again.

Then while its hot just turn it and it will be free

Frekin thing! Every damn banjo bolt/nut is seized!
Now having to somehow get the banjo nut undone from the rubber brake line!
No HJ we don't have a blow torch. Just bought a nut splitter to see if it can get any grip in a now rounded nut!

Buy a turbo torch and a bottle of MAP.

Best purchase ever for working cars and bikes.

No further forward, I now need the rubber brake hose too..... Woody or HJ?

The one to the rear axle?

Get them at a motor factors for about £12

Just wait till you have to bleed the brakes! Can be quite interesting on an LSPV system!!!

We crimped the rubber line..... Got lots if fluid & my home made bleed syringe kit
Mate mentioned local car shop for the rubber line.
The chap that's having a go tomorrow has a small blow torch...

Turbo Torch and MAPP gas like this should be in every mechanics tool arsenal.

http://www.ac-one.co.uk/rothenberger-superfire-2-turbo-torch--mapp-gas-cylinder-1269-p.asp

Every guy I have talked into getting one has come back a few weeks later with full on praise.

Those that have seen or requested seized stuff to be parted understand the power.

Copy ones are crap in comparison - likewise using butane or propane.... MAPP gas all the way, might be 3 times the price per bottle, but you use less of it and its loads hotter burn.

Any tips on bleeding this lot back up?
I'm being optimistic that there won't be any more probs!

Yep, heat is your friend, I have a wee oxy acetylene portapak kit, don't do much welding with it but it has saved my arse too many times.