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CAM SENSOR ISSUE CODE P0335?

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CAM SENSOR ISSUE CODE P0335? Empty CAM SENSOR ISSUE CODE P0335?

Post by SandyD Tue Oct 30, 2012 9:16 pm

Hi, I am new to the site and was wondering if someone could help me please.....
I have a 1300 EFI and have just changed the battery over a week ago, the van has been running really well as usual until the last few days when it has on 2 occations failed to start.
The symtons are like the starter is stuck or the immobilzer has kicked in.... then all of a sudden it fires up and drives no problems.
Over the last 2 days when it has failed to start or then starts the engine managemnet light has come on. I plugged in a scanner and the code P0335 cam shaft sensor circuit A has come up.
The strange thing is if I jump start the van it will fire up and run normally.

Could anyone shed some light on this weird issue, also could someone please tell me where the cam shaft sensor is located?... I wanted to check and clean it but have not got as clue where it is?

Another strange thing is if I disconnted the battery and reconnect it normally works fine, I have even put the old battery in and its doing the samething.

Many thank in adavnce for your help.

All the best- Sandy


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Post by HighlyJetted Tue Oct 30, 2012 10:13 pm

Hello, sorry to hear about your troubles.

You may be onto a wild goose chase so first I would like to know when you say:-

"The symtons are like the starter is stuck or the immobilzer has kicked in"

Does the engine actually spin over (woa woa woa woa woa), or is there nothing e.g. just a click?

Anyway, to get onto your specific question - the cam shaft sensor circuit fault

The cam position sensor is a hall effect sensor mounted to the end of the cam shaft in the cylinder head, if you crawl under the passenger side sliding door area, and look up near the exhaust manifold output flange you will see this little box which I have just removed from my spare van outside to show you the actual component:-

CAM SENSOR ISSUE CODE P0335? 30102010

It is held in place by 1 bolt which has a 12mm head, and has one electrical connector plug attaching it to the wiring loom.

If you are not well up on sensors, a hall effect sensor uses magnetism to detect teeth in a spinning wheel which is connected to the cam shaft, as the teeth go past the electromagnet like coil it changes the field thus you can sort of hear the teeth going past the coil.

I have checked this sensor in front of me, and between the two pins I get a resistance reading of about 220 ohms - check your to make sure your coil is still ok.

The next thing I do to test this type of sensor is attach my oscilloscope to the connector, and turn the engine over. This allows me to see the correct wave form shape on the screen. There is no point buying or swapping a part which works correctly after all.

You may find the unit is fine and this code is a symptom of the engine failing to start, or a stretched or jumped cam belt, or something totally off the wall radical man.

So to further help out your diagnostic skills I have also taken the correct pages from the workshop manual:-

CAM SENSOR ISSUE CODE P0335? Cam_se10

CAM SENSOR ISSUE CODE P0335? Cam_se11

So to read the above text:-

The error code is triggered when no cam angle sensor signal is inputted within 2 seconds while the engine is being cranked by the starter motor

This would give you the code if the key is being turned to engage the starter motor, but the starter doesn't turn the engine. So my initial above question "Does the engine actually spin over (woa woa woa woa woa), or is there nothing e.g. just a click?" is important, and I would almost second guess your engine is not turning over everytime you turn the key.

So from that I would inspect the starter motor, the cabling - and most of all as the battery has been messes with - the big fat battery lead in the boot - the connectors go all dry and nasty. You may find if you twiddle the cables about you gain a better contact thus making the starter motor engage correctly.

And incase you need a cyinder position sensor, I have a spare one available - and if it turns out you need a starter motor I have a recently reconditioned one available too Laughing

All the best, Matt

p.s if you live in the cheshire area and you are struggling to get it working then consider bringing it to me Wink

p.p.s if this advice solves or does not solve your problems let me know cheers


Last edited by HighlyJetted on Tue Oct 30, 2012 10:30 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post by SandyD Wed Oct 31, 2012 6:54 am

Hi Matt,
Firstly I would like to say thank you so much for coming back to me so quicky with all the detailed information. I very much appreciate it...

All I have is a click and some times it starts and sometimes it does not... you could be correct in the battery terminals so I am going to look at this now. To be honest the issue only started since I changed the battery...which I had to do since I left the van standing for a number of weeks and the interior light was left on so mullered the old battery.
I also noticed that there are 2 smaller wires on the +ve connection and one has a fuse the other just a wire with a crimp. I have checked the fuse and it is fine, but what I will do shortly is is to clean up all the connections and give it a go....when the van starts it runs really well like it has always done i.e once it does the woa woa woa it starts up staright away.
The strange thing is when I jumped the battery yesterday with a starter pack it fired up staright away and the engine management light came on.
I think I need to also check that nothing is shorting out in the rear battery compartment... I'm not sure what the other 2 extra wires are on the +ve terminal though?

I will keep you posted later today if that is ok but thanks again for all your support..All the best- Sandy

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Post by Logi Wed Oct 31, 2012 8:12 am

Did you change the battery for a new one? Or a "good" 2nd hand one?
Sounds like.either a shagged replacement or crap connection that when the jumpleads are put on you bypass the battery to the jump car and it starts.
Check the connectors, discharge test the battery.
And hello Smile
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Post by SandyD Wed Oct 31, 2012 10:34 am

Hi Matt and Logi,
Thank you for the reply....yes the battery was a "good" 2nd hand one!... I know I should have bought a new one....Anyways I have over the last few hours totally dismantled the rear battery compartment cleaned up all the connections like Matt recommend and put it back together....Had a quick pray before I turned the key and it started like a dream....so far so good..and I will buy a new battery today and see how that goes.... Thank you all again for your support..I will keep you posted if I get anymore dramas hopefully no more please.....!

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Post by HighlyJetted Wed Oct 31, 2012 11:47 am

The two extra wires on the + terminal power the engine management system and all the other luxuries like lights and heater blowers.

Batteries are like brake pads - all of which are like condoms - you tend to only want new ones, but if you were really stuck you might use some from a known source Laughing

Have you been able to reset the error code/warning light?
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Post by SandyD Sun Nov 04, 2012 11:30 am

Hi Matt,

Sorry for not getting back sooner and thank you again for the responce.
Just to let you know I put a new battery in and its has been fine ever since. I reset the eml light and it has not come back on since I cleaned the terminals.... I cannot thank you enough of all your support. I would still have the van in bits if it was not for your suggestions. You were spot on....
Fingers cross the old girl keeps going...
All the the best- Sandy

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Post by HighlyJetted Sun Nov 04, 2012 4:23 pm

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