Hijet Electrics. Help!!!!!!!

Hope somebody can help with this one.

About 2 years ago the fuel gauge and low fuel light both stopped working at the same time. Fine, a common problem one Hijets. When the van was serviced the wiring was checked and found to be OK and there was power at the plug that connects to the instument cluster.

When the weather turned colder a few weeks back the temperature gauge, brake warning lights, oil preassure light, engine managment light and ingition light stopped working as well but as the weather and van warmed up they were back again. I have just had a weeks holiday and the van wasn't used and now they don't work at all. So the only things that work on the instrument cluster now are Main beam light, hazard light and indicator light. All plugs to the back of the cluster are in place.

Hope someone can help with this one before I resort to pulling everything apart.

Gra

Were the heater fans working?

Yes heater fans working. I have just finished putting everything back together in despair as I couldn't find anything wrong and guess what. Yes, everything is up and working again..............at least for now.

Let you know how I get on. Hate auto electrics.

Gra

It has just occurred to me that everything that wasn't working is wired through the ignition.

Does anyone have any thoughts on why the fuel gauge doesn't work if it's got power?

Gra

Im sure it's earth switched

Looking at a wiring diagram:-

engine light
oil light
brake lights
temp gauge

are all powered by fuse "Heater 20a" via the igntion stage 1, along with the "fuse wiper turn 15a"

So I would expect the heater fans to drop at the same time, or if it was the switch then the wipers and indicators.

http://www.daihatsuhijet.co.uk/pdf_manuals/efidiagram.jpg

My fuel gauge and low fuel light didn't work turned out it was the little float from inside the tank had come out of the dip tube in the tank. Drained the tank and removed it, fished around in the tank for the missing float put the float back in the tube re fitted the tank and it worked perfectly, but the float fell out again a few weeks later I concluded the bottom of the tank was bowing under pressure causing the gap between the end of the tube and the bottom of the tank to get large enough for the float to fall out. Next time i'll put a bolt through the bottom of the tube to stop it

There is supposed to be an end cap in the float tube.

Adding to Matt's comment about the end plug, there is a slot in it to centralise the the circuit board for want of a better description and the end of it is flush with the bottom of the tube so don't go drilling through it. When you take your tank of to remove the Fuel sender shake the tank and you should find the end cap in there. Fish it out and replace in the offending article. Probably a good idea to use a soldering iron to fuse the plastic cap to the plastic tube too.

Once you have replaced the cap turn the Sender up and down to make sure that the float is moving freely. If it doesn't then the circuit board material is warped which often happens when the cap falls off. Only solution then is another working sender.