1.3 Radiator required

Hi,

I am looking for a radiator for a 1.3 2001 hijet if anybody has one.

Pretty sure HJ has a few....

If you want new, £116 delivered from advanced radiators was the cheapest I could find.
It's listed as PG101 as a 1.4 diesel but it's the same. the only difference I can see is the sides don't have the protection strip.

NOT the PG100 for 1.2 diesel which looks the same but is 300mm shorter ... than mine anyway.

http://www.adrad.co.uk/prices/prices.php?id=PG101&model=PORTER&make=PIAGGIO

Thats a bargain new radiator!

And yes, I do have a second hand one (or 5)

raydreadz wrote:Pretty sure HJ has a few....

If you want new, £116 delivered from advanced radiators was the cheapest I could find.
It's listed as PG101 as a 1.4 diesel but it's the same. the only difference I can see is the sides don't have the protection strip.

NOT the PG100 for 1.2 diesel which looks the same but is 300mm shorter ... than mine anyway.

http://www.adrad.co.uk/prices/prices.php?id=PG101&model=PORTER&make=PIAGGIO

I think you mean 30mm shorter Ray, 12" shorter (300mm) wouldnt work too well. I have fitted a rad out of a "P" reg 1.2 diesel ( which I believe is where the 1300 rad is derived from) as it has both outlets on the bottom --- unless someone had prior to me buying it -- fitted a 1300 rad in it .

I have got another 1.2 Diesel I will be breaking so will check out those measurements. Why they muck about like that and don't Standardise is beyond me !! Built in obsolescence to make more money I suppose.

I guess it depends if it is one with the later bumper, as the earlier bumper vans have to have a shorter bumper ??? MAYBE!!

Nope. I used a 1300 Rad in my 1000 by using the 1300 brackets but still retained the tubular protector under the shallow 1000 bumper. Just had a game with the pipework as the diameters are quite different in size. 
 
I believe Rich has done the same thing in his 1000. ( used the 1300 rad ).

woody wrote:I think you mean 30mm shorter Ray, 12" shorter (300mm) wouldnt work too well.

ah yes, that sounds betterer

Thanks for the heads up on that Ray. Always willing to learn. Will measure the one I put in my 1000 tomorrow as it is being dismembered at the moment and rad is still in it. 

An inch and a quarter of extra radiator isn't really going to make a gnats wotsit of difference really I wouldn't have thought --- 6.5% Big Deal and that is only 6.5% extra Rad capacity -- not cooling system capacity. The 1.4engine is 15% bigger roughly so a good bit more heat.

They could have put an extra row of cores behind the two which would have made a lot of sense 50% more capacity in the rad.

No worries, I just flagged it cos it'd be a pain in the arse if the brackets didn't reach when coming to fit it.

woody wrote:Nope. I used a 1300 Rad in my 1000 by using the 1300 brackets but still retained the tubular protector under the shallow 1000 bumper. Just had a game with the pipework as the diameters are quite different in size. 
 
I believe Rich has done the same thing in his 1000. ( used the 1300 rad ).

Doing this, does it make the radiator or lower bumper support metal work stick out below the bumper?

The 1000 vans/pickups all have the tubular radiator protector bar under the bumper as standard Matt even with the smaller radiator. The increased amount of bracketry is just level with bottom of protector bar.
And it all picks up on existing bolt holes and brackets of the 1000.

With the bigger 1300 rad it is just above the level of the tubular protector bar but has more protection of the 1300 support brackets.
I didn't get any damage to the rad despite embedding the front of the van in the 
bank ( earth type for Logi's benefit) where I park at my yard each day. 

woody wrote:Nope. I used a 1300 Rad in my 1000 by using the 1300 brackets but still retained the tubular protector under the shallow 1000 bumper. Just had a game with the pipework as the diameters are quite different in size. 
 
I believe Rich has done the same thing in his 1000. ( used the 1300 rad ).

I got a rad with no brackets it mounts top and bottom and I being the lazy git I am and in a rush it is cable tied in and sticks out under the metal rail.

Oh yes I remember you telling me that now Rich. Apologies for the misleading information.
I hope you aren't going to cable-tie the window frames and wheel arches in place too !!! 

woody wrote:Oh yes I remember you telling me that now Rich. Apologies for the misleading information.
I hope you aren't going to cable-tie the window frames and wheel arches in place too !!! 

No no no thats what pop rivets are for  

Mind you that's the first rad I have come across with independent suspension. I:D 

And don't forget the Superglue and Bathroom grade  Mould Resistant White Silicone too for goodness sakes.

woody wrote:Mind you that's the first rad I have come across with independent suspension. I:D 

it's not to bad I have grounded it out a couple of times I need to make a sump guard to mount it on just had other things to make so haven't got round to it as I need to upgrade my lathe a little so I can get a bigger face plate on to make the brackets.

Wouldn't it be easier to go back to an orginal rad if you have to take it partially to bits anyway Rich??

Yes it would but I'm skint and 1.3 rads are easier to get plus it is slightly bigger and the cooling system has never worked as well as it does at the moment and I have blown out two standard (second hand) rads they are getting a bit old now.