WANTED - Hijet Pickup or Tipper - running or not

I'm hunting for a Hijet Pickup or Tipper..... still

Main requirements are that the body work is pretty tidy on it, don't mind scratches but no big dents, bends, rot etc.

Engine is not important, running or not, or missing. I don't care. Nor is the interior.

I can car transporter it home so as long as your within 100 miles of crewe I'm interested.

I would also prefer it to be a pre 2001 example.

It has to be a bargain too =) There's cash sat here waiting for the right one.

If you know of any good leads please let me know.

Thanks, Matt

Hmmm? What you building?

I saw one at my local car auction a while ago, though i'm guessing Glasgow is a weee bitty far

T'is a bit far that, but if the condition and price was right I could be tempted.

You can probably half guess what I'm building, it's all i've been thinking about for the last 2 years since I got rid of my hijet MPV.

I don't half miss drifting my hijet, I was just getting the hang of it too. If you can guess the shamble of bits i've been hoarding you can have a little go when its alive.

Santa Pod 2012 will be good for a giggle, can't wait to spank some poo-baru's.

I've actually been meaning to see if it was still there(maybe an indicator might fall off as i was passing......) it was sitting in a corner forgotten and covered in rubbish so it may well be there? If i ever get this cast off i'm going for a run past to see.

This is what inspired me originally...





14's arn't good enough though to me, I want mid 12's, I need to eat my mates Subaru.

so what engine are you considering?

difflock123 wrote:so what engine are you considering?

This one maybe?

I had some pics on here of that rascal it's now got tiger stripes (post's called tiger in the tank) and at North Weald Airfield (Londons only drag strip) it was in the hands of a new owner and it was his second time out in it and it was running lowish 15's it's got a relient back axle which I think is where reverse is mounted and it's on VW Polo wheels (100mm PCD) he reconed it needed an exhaust as the R1 system was used and it goes under the motor so can't be lowered and keeps spinning up on the line b ut he would sell it for £2500 - £3000.

difflock123 wrote:So what engine are you considering?

Mr Difflock, the million dollar question! Well I've currently got the choice of two that i've hoarded...

YZF1000R = 1003cc 145bhp 6 speed. Pushes 60 in under 3 seconds and tops out at about 170mph on the 190kg 1997 bike
and
ZZR1100 - Similar figures to the above I think, not totally sure which spec this engine is as the serial numbers are missing. hmmm!

But if I can physically fit two of either engines between the chassis rails, well you can guess where its going. I prefer the YZR motor as its much nicer, feels lighter to pickup and I have more faith in the gearbox build quallity. The zzr motor is a bit rough and its history is unknown. ZZR's are cheaper, but that says a lot too.

Either way i'm going to gear it right down so it maxes out at roughly 120mph in 6th on the rev limiter. If I can only fit one engine easily without modifying the chassis i'll have to add 100bhp shot of nitrous or think of something else to give me the quarter mile times i'm hunting for. The target is around 12 seconds, it needs to eat Evo's and Scoobies for breakfast. Problem with the nitrous is its got 4 carbs, so I'll need 4 wet (fuel fed) foggers, I might as well fit 2 engines for how much it will cost to feed the nasty n2o addiction. I'd also like it to have a wheelie problem on the drag strip, just for the crowd really. I have this long standing dream of entering TOTB.

Fit both you only need one box hack the one off the ruff motor and take a shaft off the end of the crank into the other, go on I dare you

Just been to the little thinking room and remembered hearing that drift cars like independant rear setup so they can toe in or out the wheels to make it spin up easier so a bit of playing with a front landrover axle or what ever they use in a four wheel steering off roader and use adjustable tie bars to set straight for draging and not for drifting don't know if you could do that with the chain drive axle or not.

HighlyJetted wrote:

difflock123 wrote:So what engine are you considering?

Mr Difflock, the million dollar question! Well I've currently got the choice of two that i've hoarded...

YZF1000R = 1003cc 145bhp 6 speed. Pushes 60 in under 3 seconds and tops out at about 170mph on the 190kg 1997 bike
and
ZZR1100 - Similar figures to the above I think, not totally sure which spec this engine is as the serial numbers are missing. hmmm!

But if I can physically fit two of either engines between the chassis rails, well you can guess where its going. I prefer the YZR motor as its much nicer, feels lighter to pickup and I have more faith in the gearbox build quallity. The zzr motor is a bit rough and its history is unknown. ZZR's are cheaper, but that says a lot too.

Either way i'm going to gear it right down so it maxes out at roughly 120mph in 6th on the rev limiter. If I can only fit one engine easily without modifying the chassis i'll have to add 100bhp shot of nitrous or think of something else to give me the quarter mile times i'm hunting for. The target is around 12 seconds, it needs to eat Evo's and Scoobies for breakfast. Problem with the nitrous is its got 4 carbs, so I'll need 4 wet (fuel fed) foggers, I might as well fit 2 engines for how much it will cost to feed the nasty n2o addiction. I'd also like it to have a wheelie problem on the drag strip, just for the crowd really. I have this long standing dream of entering TOTB.

this is what I would personally do....

take the YZF engine, and turbo charge it.

200~300hp should be easily achievable.
turbos can be picked up from scrapyards for very little money or ebay for a little more.

something like a Mitsubishi TD04 (shogun, impreza, etc) should be a nice size.
run around 14~15psi (1.0bar), through a half decent intercooler


obviously then, you will have a plenum chamber on the back of the carbs instead of an airbox/4 individual filters.
then a small bottle of nitrous setup on the throttle (at maximum only, with an override off), into a single point on the plenum chamber.

a bit of turbo lag under normal driving isnt an issue, but you dont want any when sitting on the drag strip starting line.
so you make sure the nitrous is on, and then when you floor it off the line, the nitrous causes the turbo to spool very quickly....



if a standard R1 engined hijet can get ~15 seconds, I reckon the above setup should see 12 seconds....IF you can get the power down.

dont use a land rover axle though...they are heavy and not as strong as you may think!

I wouldn't use a land rover anything, don't you worry! I grew up round that stuff, good for farmers maybe, drag strip - I don't think so pal!
(mutters under breath - although TD-5 intercoolers are pretty good for other applications)

Done a fair bit of turbo tinkering over the years, and i've learnt from very expensive mistakes :eek: - its where my love of Daihatsu grew - Charage GTti's. If I went forced induction it would be efi all the way, carbs don't work right under boost because the pressure in the plenum/carb throat can easily be greater than that of the carbs float chamber, thus stopping the venturi effect over the needles and blowing the fuel back out the over flows etc. You need to build a pressurised carb setup, but if you study any machines that have tried that it never works right. Common rail injection is the only way really.

OR you put the carb on the turbo intake, but then you have very hot turbo full of nice air/fuel mix

If you ever believe turbo and cheap can go hand in hand, you'll realise when you try it that it just doesn't roll like that

Anyway, lots of cars have powerful engines, and turbo's - but how many vans have 2 engines - peoples faces when you start one up and rev it, then the other and rev it

I reckon a big V8 sat in the front of the bed is the answer

what is it about old men and v8's

... my dad said the same thing


BUT, i do like these v8's http://www.h1v8.com/page/page/1562068.htm



Worth more than all the hijets on here put together almost.

HighlyJetted wrote:what is it about old men and v8's

... my dad said the same thing .

Can't beat a V8, one of my mates had one in his Mini

Bet a b16 vtec mini would kick its ass any day, and especially round a track as its weight distribution would be far better.

The v8 argument has been spun a few times in my house... but the v8 is a looser evertime

The standard v8 weighs just shy of 200kg, barely makes 190bhp and the rod ratio is totally shocking, no wonder they rev like a sack of spuds.

Where a standard b16a vtec engine weights about 90kg's, with the gearbox its about 120kgs, they make about 175bhp, rev to 9,000rpm due to an almost ideal rod ratio of 1.74:1 and the cylinder head is fantasic with its duel cam profiles to give it both low end stability and top end flow.

I know which i'd perfer to pay the fuel bill on too, and the rebuild costs with pretty much half the hardware of the v8 engine.

Keep with the times! Maybe the v8 was good in the 70's, but that's before my time. I can't disagree that the v8 sounds much better.

Young 'uns nowadays, no taste

found a piccy online of my mates mini, he sold it a while ago(still got a V8 but it's in a Corvette now)



One thing you do get is the shock factor, i remember we were at a show and the usual snobby know-it-all with kid in tow.
"oh, look, a Mini with a V8 badge" Snigger.

Jie lifts the front off and says in his best snotty voice
"oh look, a Mini with a V8 ENGINE"

Chummy b***ered off sharpish.

yes, I know there are other things to consider with a turbo setup :p


megasquirt is probably a good option




as for the V8......I was being good, not saying V8 :p

My landy is being fitted with a V8 if all goes well


but land rover stuff is heavy :p
but in some respects....a drag racing landy could be lots of fun


and TD5 intercoolers are popular for Tdi conversions in older landys due to the design (I personally went with something even bigger :p)

I've played with megasquirt 2, and its a pretty buggy platform. Hands down to the people who developed it, but really by the time you've made one, it not work right, you do all the fault finding on the boards, eventually get the hardware right, then get the sensors working right, etc....and then you have to map it from the very beginning - you might as well just nick a whole engine management system of a working car. My personal choice is the PGMFI system, you can get it all together for less than £200 easily, and the software platforms crome and turbo edit and BRE and uberdata are fantastic and free. But this wont help you on anything other than inline 4 pots - so project megasquirt does have its uses.

TD5 intercoolers fit on charade gtti's really well, and I was going to put one on my toyota paseo 5efe until it ditched the big end bearings. The other side of my family is into land rover trials and all that non sense Are you going to show your landy off on the other pictures thread then or what?

HighlyJetted wrote:I've played with megasquirt 2, and its a pretty buggy platform. Hands down to the people who developed it, but really by the time you've made one, it not work right, you do all the fault finding on the boards, eventually get the hardware right, then get the sensors working right, etc....and then you have to map it from the very beginning - you might as well just nick a whole engine management system of a working car. My personal choice is the PGMFI system, you can get it all together for less than £200 easily, and the software platforms crome and turbo edit and BRE and uberdata are fantastic and free. But this wont help you on anything other than inline 4 pots - so project megasquirt does have its uses.

TD5 intercoolers fit on charade gtti's really well, and I was going to put one on my toyota paseo 5efe until it ditched the big end bearings. The other side of my family is into land rover trials and all that non sense Are you going to show your landy off on the other pictures thread then or what?

Yes, megasquirt can be a bit tricky....

personally, on my V8 the plan is to fit megajolt....its simple, and reliable (and waterproof) :p
and hopefully I'll also be able to replace the carbs with the big single Weber-Edelbrock 500


as for pics of it....

well the problem is, its currently stripped down to its bare chassis, for some repairs :p
and at the same time the 3.5V8 and LT95 (the big, strong rangey 4 speed box), are being fitted all being well....

it was fitted with the standard gearbox and a Discovery 200Tdi (tuned with big intercooler, properly tweaked fuelling, and straight pipe exhaust), but that engine decided to die



I'll have a look to see if I have any old pics though.....I changed it from a hardtop (van) to a truckcab due to requirements, so I dont know if I have pics as a truckcab.....

What died on the old engine?

HighlyJetted wrote:What died on the old engine?

cylinder head and head gasket.....

it cracked badly between the valves on 2 cylinders, hairline cracks on the 3rd.

plus cracks on 2 or 3 cylinders between the valves, the injectors and then from the injectors to the glowplugs.
one cylinder also had a crack from the glowplug towards a pushrod tube.....


so the head is basically scrap.....

new good condition heads work out at £200~300 each (by the time they really should be skimmed)


and considering the series gearbox isnt very strong, it seemed logical to consider a stronger gearbox....

so I got a good LT95 and an OK 3.5V8 (slightly seized, but I have loads of spares, and V8s are cheap due to the fuel economy...)
I paid quite a bit less than a good 200Tdi cylinder head......

Hi, we've got a project one for sale, it'd need a re-spray. pickup project. if you didn't want the engine or gearbox I'm sure we could probably let you have it at a very reasonable price. Only problem being that we're down in Somerset which is rather far away from you I think.