Electrical woes

Help required for an electrical gremlin that’s driving me mad. The other week I tried to start the van and all I got was all the normal lights except the engine management light, motor turned but no spark, following day, all started as normal. This week got the same fault, rescued by AA and now at home. AA suggested it may be the imobiliser that someone had fitted previously so I have stripped it all out (it was only splitting one wire to ignition to stop it working, rest were power and earths etc). Tried again and no difference, all normal dash lights except engine management light, engine turns but does not fire. Main and fuel pump relays seem to work as I can hear the normal click as the key is turned.

Raggy from your post it sounds as though you have everything except spark. Have you tried confirming this by turning the engine over a few times then pull a plug to see if it is wet - if it is then injectors are working only leaves spark.

I think the clue is no engine light. I think you have found and checked the 10amp ignition fuse.
I think your van is pre OBD - in an ideal world you would put an Oscilliascope on the ECU ignition output - but ...
Try putting meter on LT ignition between ECU and coils - is there any power? -
(Maybe ckeck continuity of lead from ECU to coils also the leads between coils and 10amp fuse)
Failing that I fear you are looking for an ECU or the ignition mudule

I have a spare ECU so may try that as its a straight swap at minute. Yes the engine management light is the key to this issue as when its on it works.

Check the thin earth wire from the ECU to an earthing point.
Jon

Well the van lives again, in the end it did turn out to be one of the small wires (of the pair) comming off the battery. I had repaired it at the battery end last year but one had corroded and failed half way along but you couldnt see for the insulation. Remade it completely, plugged it back in and she started straight up, job done. Thanks Uncle Woodie and D1noh who both suggested the possible cause correcly.

The cable fully remade

The offending wires, no wonder it worked then didnt then worked, very corroded.

I must write out 100 times, never believe your previous repairs are infallible and look for the simple things suggested first. Ah well, I have learnt a bit by this episode...you just never stop with a hijet!

I couldn't see the point of the plug and just removed it completely.

How do you stop water getting up to the spade connectors in the grey connector then? Think my issue thinking about it comes from testing it previously when it failed and using the spike probes for my multimeter through the insulation therefore letting moisture have an entry to the actual wire through the insulation. So maybe I was the master of my own disaster!q

I know that the wire from the battery supplies power to the ECU and hence the engine management light, (and of the two from the battery it was the green one), where does it go and where does it end at the ECU end? Looked at the wire diagrams I have and can’t find it at all!

Nah, I mean the grey plug, I just soldered the wires together after removing it.

Ah! That explains it, yes seems a strange connection for the sake of it.

In general if you put a smear of Copperslip on the spade connectors this makes an improved electrical connection and prevents corrosion - you can also do this to the fuse blades.
Jon

Raggy - Take a look at this thread conversation between me and Woodie but may interest you.
https://hijet.forumotion.com/t4036-for-kernowjon01-behind-this-pretty-exterior-lies-a-very-hot-secret
Jon