Thermostat Gasket?

I've heard that changing a thermostat on a 1.3 Hijet is really awkward as the central handbrake/gear stick panel needs to be removed to gain access - modern vehicles!!. So I want to have everything to hand when I do the job. I've got the thermostat but can't get a dedicated gasket; so is it a paper one I can cut myself or is it rubber? Any other guidelines appreciated. Thanks.

There is no gasket.

And it is a pretty easy job, takes me about 15 minutes to get it stripped down.

Both seats out, handbrake centre support out, loosen alternator, drain coolant, remove thermostat housing and hoses.

Clean both faces up properly. Bit of Hermetite Red/Hylomite Red sealant.

DO NOT BREAK EITHER THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING OR THE BOLTS!!!!!

To get to the thermostat housing bolts you will need some 1/4 extensions - one with a wobble end, a ratchet and a 10mm socket

Heavy handed super hero's crack the thermostat housing when they tighten it up. Don't do this as they are like hens teeth.

Advice much appreciated.

I undertook the changing of my thermostat and after removing seats, panels and then very difficult accessibility I managed to change the thermostat; taking four hours. The old one was permanently jammed open (thus the low temp reading) but noted the new replacement from Europarts had a different opening rating stamped on it. The old was 78c but the new one (that Europarts assured was the correct) was rated at 84c (made by Circoli). However, my concerns were alleviated when I checked the workshop manual that rated the thermostat to be between 82c to 86c. The outer rubber ring was the same size as the old, but had a little locating lip that didn't seem to match the housing. I therefore fitted the old rubber ring (that looked fine) onto the new one and tightened it into place.

On my first drive the temperature gauge needle seemed okay to start with at the usual half way point, but then moved up to the highest point, just a whisker below the overheat mark.

The next day I checked for leaks and air-locks, topping up very small amounts, but no leaks found. The lower hose to the thermostat stayed cool for a long time and only seemed to warm when the temp needle became quite high. I wondered if any airlocks could be causing this?

The third day I drained all the coolant and added again following the instructions. Strangely, when I started the vehicle up from cold the cooling fan would switch on correctly when the temp needle was just above half way. However, when driving it soon moved up to just below the overheating mark with no cooling fan kicking in, even when I stopped!

With the thermostat so difficult to get to I am reluctant to undo and recheck. Any ideas please.

Tis why I drilled a little hole in mine, they can be an arse to bleed. Is the bottom hose hot? And I mean HOT? If not you have an airlock. And as the fan switch stupidly operates from where the airlock occurs it WILL overheat cos the fan can't switch on .
Is it filling the expansion tank?

HighlyJetted wrote:

And it is a pretty easy job, takes me about 15 minutes to get it stripped down..

   Pretty impressed. Took me around 40 mins.

There are only about 17 nuts/bolts you need to undo, and 2 pipe clips

I can put every tool on my tray that I will need to do the swap.

Pressure testing and refilling takes a little while though as it's not just a case of bang some water in it.


So g149... my question to you is why did you change your thermostat? Was is never getting hot?

Answers: Logi - The new thermostat has a small hole in the flange that I made sure was fitted top most. Hose leading up to thermostat never gets that HOT and will still be cold when the top hose is reaching very very hot. When very hot the expansion tank does fill/overfill.
HighlyJetted -  Changed original thermostat as temperature never getting hot and therefore always idling at high speed with bad MPG. With new thermostat idling speed is back to normal but now have other described worse problems.
All - I'm tempted to refit a 78c thermostat as it previously did the job fine for years before jamming open recently. But can't understand why the workshop manual spec of 82c to 86c is causing problems. Why doesn't the correct new one work? What should I do?

It's not the thermostat causing you the problems. Its your bleeding/filling of the coolant system.

A couple of degrees here and there on the thermostat means nothing really. They really are not that accurate.

I would like to add that Daisydon found blocked pipe work which if you have that it won't help the bleeding process.

Appreciate all your feedback. HighlyJetted - I would agree that 6c difference shouldn't push the temp needle almost off the scale. Would be grateful if you spell out each correct stage of bleeding/refilling my 1.3 pickup.

Yes I will, but I will have to take some photos of the different bits I am describing.

This guide needs making, and publishing on the forum.

It will take me a couple of hours realistically.

I will do it by mid week this week.

yep, check yer little pipes arnt blocked too  

Don't think pipes are blocked as the problem I was attempting to solve was too much coolant flow causing constant low engine temperature.