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Waxoyl / stone chip / hammerite under body / bitumen wheel arches

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Post by stevelav Sun Dec 09, 2012 8:11 pm

I've cleaned up my wheel arches and they don't look too bad for a 13 year old -

[img]Waxoyl / stone chip / hammerite under body / bitumen wheel arches 2012-110[/img]

apart from this one little hole where the mud flap fixes on -

[img]Waxoyl / stone chip / hammerite under body / bitumen wheel arches 2012-111[/img]

I was going to just waxoyl but I'm thinking that the wheel arches take a lot of hammer. On a lot of sites people seem to recommend stone chip paint which you spray on in a thick layer after priming bare metal. Bit pricy though as i'd use one can per arch. Some others recommend hammerite under body seal which you paint after priming and it stays a bit soft and sticky (maybe like bituminous paint). And I also thought of using bituminous paint as that stays flexible but is pretty hard.

Anyone got any experience of this?

I'm pretty happy with waxoyl for most places as it does dry fairly hard and goes on very well though I think I'll wait for some warm weather before I do the full waxoyl spray job in the chasis etc and just paint a bit for the time being where it needs it.

Not so sure about under the sills as they have lots of surface rust and will get crud from the front wheels, is waxoyl tough enough here or should I prime and paint?

I do like how easy waxoyling is, no priming just splodge it on and let it set.

And that hole too, I need to cover that with something or it will fill with mud and I need to have something sturdy to fit my mud flap/lpg filler to? I could bolt a little sheet of stainless over it I suppose.

Stephen
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Post by rich the mechanic Sun Dec 09, 2012 8:27 pm

Hammerite works very well as the water runs off it unlike waxoyl and is designed to be applied direct to metal and will slow rust down by sealing it in but if you want to be super sure put a coat of jenolite on first it turns the rust to iron oxide yes I know thats what rust is but rust is steel oxide.
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Post by stevelav Sun Dec 09, 2012 8:35 pm

Yes the thing I like about the hammerite is its cheap and easy to use, I could easily do the sills with it to though a zinc primer might be better than jenolite?
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Post by rich the mechanic Sun Dec 09, 2012 8:42 pm

Zinc primer is a preventative not a cure Jenolite acutually changes the rust to something else, if you buy steel you can buy bright or black, bright will rust whereever you touch it within a few days black has the surface oxodised and will not rust I built a tow bar for my car 7 years ago using black steel and I have never painted it and it's not rusty this is what jenolite does. Just found out that it has been re branded now called prorust http://prorust.com/#/home/


Last edited by rich the mechanic on Sun Dec 09, 2012 8:42 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : adding link)
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Post by stevelav Sun Dec 09, 2012 9:00 pm

I can find both jenolite and pro rust. They do get some mixed reviews for how good they are in the long term, apparently they use acids to react with the rust and stabalise it. But I think your right, unless I get every bit of rust off I have to use something like this.
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Post by rich the mechanic Sun Dec 09, 2012 9:06 pm

You can order a free sample even though it says the date is passed but once you have stabilised it then seal it off with the hammerite.
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Post by stevelav Sun Dec 09, 2012 9:20 pm

That's the nice thing about waxoyl it soaks right in to the rust, shame it can wash off
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Post by rich the mechanic Fri Dec 14, 2012 8:05 pm

Got my free sample today so will give it a go over xmas if the weather is ok, looks like Pro rust is buying up old names they list jenolite and repaint but only have the pro rust on the website.
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Post by stevelav Fri Dec 14, 2012 8:06 pm

Where do you get the free sample from?
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Post by rich the mechanic Fri Dec 14, 2012 8:52 pm

http://prorust.com/#/news/free-prorust-sample-3

close the box and contacts is at the top of the page
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Post by HighlyJetted Fri Dec 14, 2012 10:47 pm

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Post by stevelav Fri Dec 14, 2012 10:54 pm

how does that compare to the hammerite underseal and can you brush it on?
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Post by rich the mechanic Sun Dec 16, 2012 9:43 pm

It is a brand name under seal just don't bother with the spray can.
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Post by HighlyJetted Sun Dec 16, 2012 10:01 pm

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Post by stevelav Tue Dec 18, 2012 4:36 pm

I'm not buying a compressor to paint my wheel arches!

I'm thinking that as the hammerite underbody paint already has waxoyl in it it won't matter if there is a thin wiping of waxoyl already on the metal, so I'm going to smear a little waxoyl on the rusty areas polish it off with a cloth and then paint on top of that working the paint in a bit to make sure it mixes with the waxoyl. Nice and easy as i've loads of waxoyl and I do really trust waxoyl for stopping rust.
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Post by elfin girl Wed Dec 19, 2012 1:12 am

I'm reading all this with interest because if mine hasn't had (another!) major fail by the summer this is my next job, so far I don't have any major rust or holes but obviously there is surface rust... I thought I could just clean it all up and paint it with something to stop it rusting any more.... I'm getting the impression from this thread that once rust has started it will just keep going unless you put something on to stop it before painting?
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Post by 8bit-ash Wed Dec 19, 2012 9:48 am

I'm not a huge fan of Hammerite but their No1 Rust Beater primer gets good reviews. When I did mine I ground as much surface rust off as poss then Used the No1 Rust primer. Then painted it with Rustoleum (only because i've got 10l kicking around. Then used the Tetra Shultz stuff with the compressor and gun method. I wouldn't fancy painting it on mind. Haven't looked under it since to see how its holding up so pretty useless post really Smile
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Post by rich the mechanic Wed Dec 19, 2012 11:27 am

modern Hammerite or smoothrite is not as good as it used to be as it is now a spirit base instead of the not so good for the enviroment stuff it used to be to many V V O C numbers.
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