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Different brake pad sizes, which goes on what?

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Different brake pad sizes, which goes on what?  Empty Different brake pad sizes, which goes on what?

Post by Lex_Michdebus Tue May 14, 2019 3:33 pm

So I've been to the MOT guy (who nearly overheated my head dammit) and one of the front wheels didn't spin freely. I noticed my brake fluid was low, so I guess the pads are on the skinny side. Since I never changed them before I thought it would be a good idea to change them, which will probably sort my hanging wheel problem.

Now the shops are giving me choices on the size of the pads... So they probably are mixing up all kinds of flavors (993, 1300, van, pick up, carb, efi...) of Hijet and I think it is better to ask around here for some advice then to let the shop decide what size my pads should be.

Sizes to choose from (on my first choice webseller):

78.8x57.0x13.5 (Nipparts)
78.5x63.0x13.5 (Bosh, Sumitomo)
78.8x63.4x13.4 (Brembo, Sumitomo)

I think the bottom two sizes are the same pads, just a different factory.

And what is the Sumitomo and what is the Akebono style? Another website discriminates them that way;

78.6x63.9x13.4 (All Brake Systems, Akebono)

-edit- My Hijet is the 993 carb van by the way (1996, CB41, S85).
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Post by Guest Tue May 14, 2019 7:26 pm

I have just been out into my garage and dug-out the Brake Pads that I changed on my MPV recently. I have done over 30,000 miles in 5+ years and were in it when I got it. So they haven't done bad at all considering the lunatic that drives it.

I have measured the pads and they are 79.46 wide and 58.73 high. If you find that the ones you get are a bit of a tight fit - just use an angle grinder on the ends to take a little bit of metal off so that they are a nice fit in the Caliper.

Go for the Nipparts ones for sure. The others are 5 mm deeper and if you fit them to used discs they won't fit square on the disc as there will be a wear ridge.
Even on new discs I would be wary of the deeper pads
as they may be close to the Disc Hub. Can't be sure of that - but go with the Nipparts ones for sure. They are known for their quality. I have taken 3 pictures but I am going to send this first as I sometimes get problems with this Z3 Tablet. If so I will use my phone.

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Post by Guest Tue May 14, 2019 7:29 pm

Different brake pad sizes, which goes on what?  Dsc_5510
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Post by Lex_Michdebus Tue May 14, 2019 9:53 pm

Thanks for the effort Woody, as always! I usually go for Nipparts parts, they're the best quality for cheap. I'll be ordering them later tonight when I have checked my stock. I need a few filters and bits and bobs, saves me postage.

So all flavors of Hijet have the same pads? Why are they making these different sizes then? And what's the difference between Sumitomo and Akebono?
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Post by Guest Tue May 14, 2019 10:33 pm

Well in my experience Lex, all the 993cc and both Diesels and the 1300 that I have broken for spares all have had the same Callipers and Brake Pads including the "Mythical Vented Discs", which were fitted to the 993cc Carburettor Engined models.

As for the two other makes you mention - I have never heard of either of them. New ones to me.
We have something like 10 different Motor Factors on the Isle of Wight so I expect I could probably find about 6 or more different manufacturers of Hi-Jet pads over here between the ten of them. Some of the Motor Factors supply all areas with deliveries up to 4 times a day. So all I have to do is phone them and if the parts are in stock they can be delivered to my house within 2 hours in some cases.

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Post by Lex_Michdebus Wed May 15, 2019 1:35 am

Yes! I'm not going crazy! I thought I saw vented discs on my van but wasn't sure if I was seeing things... They're not selling them new, they're all massive discs.

I ordered the Nipparts "small" ones (16 euros), hoping to get them in this weekend. I already stocked up on WD40... Oh what fun I'm going to have busting rust...
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Post by Guest Wed May 15, 2019 7:49 am

Those Vented Discs are 5 stud BMW ones and nearly as large as a 12" Hi-Jet wheel!!

I have contacted the Vendors several times and E-bay but nothing is ever done about it.

The wrong Track Control Arms that E-bay were selling February last year and I have had several heated exchanges with them over it. I contacted BORG and BECK /First line and spoke to Roger Nightingale there and he put a block on selling them.

But there are some unscrupulous traders out there still selling them as Hi-Jet when they know they are NOT. They are wrong in 7 different places. They hadn't got a clue what they ACTUALLY WERE FOR.

I have just 5 weeks ago had another go at Ebay about a seller in the North of England still blatantly selling them after I had made several complaints to them and Ebay.

They said that he was a reputable Seller of many years and knows what he is doing.
I told them that like the seller Ebay were ignorant idiots and that I have had 17 years of experience with Hi-Jets and I DO KNOW WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT - UNLIKE YOU.

I told them that First Line removed them from sale in February last year and to contact Roger Nightingale at First Line/Borg & Beck.

I did look a few weeks ago and the number selling the wrong arms has dropped. So must have done some good my constant complaints to E-bay.

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Post by Guest Wed May 15, 2019 8:16 am

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Post by Guest Wed May 15, 2019 8:39 am

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Well the same bloke is still selling them, but the total number of Sellers with the incorrect TCA's has dropped a huge amount. Could be because they have run out of stock I expect due to Borg & Beck withdrawing them from sale.
Certainly doesn't look like the Ebay idiots have done anything about it does it??

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Post by Guest Wed May 15, 2019 8:44 am

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This is the one I have complained to and about - SO DONT GET CAUGHT OUT by him. If many of you email him and complain to E-bay then perhaps something can get done.
Pie-in-the-Sky?? Maybe - but worth trying.

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Post by Guest Wed May 15, 2019 8:47 am

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Post by Lex_Michdebus Wed May 15, 2019 9:15 am

Woodie wrote:Those Vented Discs are 5 stud BMW ones and nearly as large as a 12" Hi-Jet wheel!!

I have contacted the Vendors several times and E-bay but nothing is ever done about it.

The wrong Track Control Arms that E-bay were selling February last year and I have had several heated exchanges with them over it. I contacted BORG and BECK /First line and spoke to Roger Nightingale there and he put a block on selling them.

But there are some unscrupulous traders out there still selling them as Hi-Jet when they know they are NOT. They are wrong in 7 different places. They hadn't got a clue what they ACTUALLY WERE FOR.

I have just 5 weeks ago had another go at Ebay about a seller in the North of England still blatantly selling them after I had made several complaints to them and Ebay.

They said that he was a reputable Seller of many years and knows what he is doing.
I told them that like the seller Ebay were ignorant idiots and that I have had 17 years of experience with Hi-Jets and I DO KNOW WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT - UNLIKE YOU.

I told them that First Line removed them from sale in February last year and to contact Roger Nightingale at First Line/Borg & Beck.

I did look a few weeks ago and the number selling the wrong arms has dropped. So must have done some good my constant complaints to E-bay.

No, I meant to say that my van has vented discs, not that I have seen them for sale. Don't get so excited about it Woody, it's bad for your heart and you won't find spare parts for that one.
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Post by Guest Wed May 15, 2019 9:34 am

Yes I understood that Lex. Yours being the PRE-EFI Model should have Vented Discs. It is amazing that they have lasted for so many years.

I was just saying for everyone's information that the E-bay advertised ones are for a BMW.
The sellers didn't want to listen or do something about it - and neither did E-bay.

You should know me by now Lex. I LOVE a good verbal row and I'm pretty damn good at it. It is great fun. It might sound like I am really wound up about it - but that is part of the fun. I am in complete control.

It always makes for good reading for everyone - a good row.

It is a shame that the Vented Discs are not available any longer. Would have liked a pair on my Hi-Jet. I contacted one of my local Motor Factors to see if they could help and they had a listing for it. When they arrived I saw that the box was huge and weighed nearly as much as half a Hi-Jet. When we checked we discovered that they were listed for several BMW CARS.

So don't worry about me getting wound up. I love it when I am in complete control but seemingly not to be.

However there have been some occasions when I have been pretty angry about certain matters. lol!

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Post by Lex_Michdebus Wed May 15, 2019 5:34 pm

You don't want to know how many people I kill in a day... I hope it fades with age!
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Post by Lex_Michdebus Mon May 20, 2019 1:07 am

Man what a shit job this is. All the stuff with threads on it were like new. Bolts look like they came out of the box... But those brake pad slider pins! Man what a big pile of crap that is. Got three of them out after a long battle. One had to make me take the caliper apart and still wouldn't budge. Kept soaking it with WD40 throughout the day and kept pinching and (trying to) turning it with vice grips. Eventually it gave up...

They now are staying the night in a bath of rust solvent (Rustico gel) and I'll be attacking them with 400 grit waterproof sandpaper to make them look as new (or make them fit). This will fix my sticking wheel problem I think. Or hope.

The discs were not at all scratched, the pads weren't even fully worn... But I damaged them when trying to get them out, so I'm putting in the new ones. They only cost me 15 euro's (12 brexits?), not worth the hassle of sending back. I am disappointed that they don't include the slider pins and springy things. It's almost impossible to keep them in one piece when you take out the pads. I know I'll be keeping an eye out for new pins and springies because they're not going to survive a second battle like this.

I'll see if I can put up a few pictures when I've put it back together. Not sure if they're helpful, but it's at least a friendly reminder that I hate fixing cars.
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Post by Guest Mon May 20, 2019 7:30 am

Lex, good morning. Bio-fos has had 5 sets of Stainless Steel Brake Pins made. I have got a set for my van last week. PM him.
I am really pleased with them. Really nice job has been made of them. Go for it!! bounce

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Post by Lex_Michdebus Mon May 20, 2019 2:51 pm

And you are telling me this after I have spent an entire day cleaning up the old pins...

I have thought about making them myself or turning them myself on a lathe from stainless, but won't they be reacting (galvanic corrosion) with the steel from the calipers? For now I need my van to be up and running this week, so I will put in the old ones. I'll take some exact dimensions so I can replicate them. If others are making them themselves, then my idea wasn't that bad after all.

Thank you for telling me about people that still make their own stuff! You start to doubt yourself when you get the idea of fabrication because of all the 'you need it new' propaganda that is on the tube the entire day.
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Post by Guest Mon May 20, 2019 3:01 pm

Well you did only say YESTERDAY about getting new Pins Lex I was straight on it when I saw your post. Anyway if you don't get round to making some you have the option of Stainless ones from Bio-fos. He did say to me that he will put a Post on the Forum shortly so with only 3 sets left don't think about it for too long.

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Post by Lex_Michdebus Mon May 20, 2019 10:51 pm

I'm happy to make them myself, even more if they are moving to someone else that needs them. If I do make them I'll try to make a few extra for the poor. Let me know if the stainless is eating away the steel from the calipers!
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Post by Guest Tue May 21, 2019 8:05 am

Galvanic Corrosion CANNOT occur if the two materials are dry (fat chance with wet roads) OR if an Isolation Barrier such as Grease is used.
Tap once on the screen to reveal the complete picture.

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Post by Lex_Michdebus Tue May 21, 2019 12:12 pm

I'm sorry for being so annoying, but it occurs when there's contact (current can flow between the two metals, it is all in the milivolts). Also when dry! Touching wires can also carry electricity when dry. It speeds up when wet (even more when salty wet, when crying on it or on snowy days). So it's not necessarily a good thing when they're stainless... Time will tell!
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Post by Guest Tue May 21, 2019 12:32 pm

Well we will have to agree to disagree then Lex. The page I put up from Google clearly states that it CAN'T happen when both metals are dry.

I am no Scientist obviously but if grease is used then we all know that it does protect metal surfaces and makes future dismantling much easier to do.

Anyway I am unlikely to see how future time affects the Electrolytic Corrosion - or care for that matter. I have far more pressing issues to worry about. Shocked

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Post by Lex_Michdebus Tue May 21, 2019 12:48 pm

It's science, not Google Wink

Did you skip the doctor's appointment again?
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Post by Ed the shed Wed Jun 05, 2019 10:24 pm

Hi Lex I wouldn't worry about electrolysis stainless to iron castings are very close in the periodic table apart from the fact the sections are large and should be well coated with grease, the rest of the van will have succumbed to metal worm before any real electrical corrosion will have happened. by the by the rust you have been fighting with is formed by electrolysis.
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Post by Guest Wed Jun 05, 2019 11:11 pm

Thank you very much Ed. At least you agree with me. Trying to get through to Lex about anything is like trying to bore a mile long Tunnel through concrete with a matchstick.

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Post by Ed the shed Wed Jun 05, 2019 11:32 pm

Hi Woodie just thought to correct missinfo as delivered by google, unfortunately the table Lex posted is very basic without the actual potential voltage differences shewn low grade SS to cast iron is approx 0.2v whereas steel to cast iron is approx 0.1v you are more likely to get crevice corrosion on the bearing surfaces of the ss pin than severe electrolytic corrosion in the casting unless operating in immersed high salinity solution. on the benefit side the open exposed areas of the pin are unlikely to " rust up " therefore making removal easier.
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