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My turn! Needle towards the H..

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Post by JohanNL Tue May 06, 2014 4:42 pm

For now, first I'm gonna buy me a shitload of coolant and a new thermostat.
So whilst I'm gone, some stuff for you to read:

Today the first time it happened..
The needle went towards the H, which probably doesn't stand for Hijet..
What I did and checked:

Stopped the van, to begin with.
Opened the left engine-bay and saw that the see-through tank was "full" with coolant, so I think it has enough coolant.
Second thing I did, was turning on the heating-system, but no warm air coming in from anywhere.
Then I opened up the grill in the front to feel the radiator, but it was completely cold.

So:
Radiator cold.
Coolant tank is at a normal level.
Heating stayed cold.

So my guessing is:
Water-pump (Coolant-pump?) is not working, so no flow, and no cooling of the system?
Thermostat is sticking, which also means no flow.

Asked my supplier for a thermostat and which coolant should be put in, and since I don't know what kind of coolant is in it now, I want to replace the whole thing.

So, questions:
How to bleed every drop of coolant in the system?
And should filling it up like it is written in the van fill it up correctly? (The pressure-fill I can not use at the moment due to lack of those goods).

Anyone having a how-to on the thermostat?
I will probably find out where it is and stuff, but still..

Thank god I have a spare Opel (Vauxhall?) Corsa to drive for a few days..

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Post by HighlyJetted Tue May 06, 2014 7:41 pm

Thermostat is the 1st suspect.

Water pumps do not tend to fail on them

Seach youtube for "hijet coolant" watch video of red van.
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Post by HighlyJetted Tue May 06, 2014 7:42 pm

ALWAYS PRESSURE FILL A HIJET!!

Buy a watering can and some hose pipe.
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Post by JohanNL Tue May 06, 2014 8:48 pm

My experiences with hoses and clamps is that when you don't have to take them off, then don't..
But I will try it on the spare-parts Van, to see how that goes.

I bought me a Nipparts J1536001 Thermostat
And 10 liters of G12+ Coolant

Also asked the guy what kind of oil it needs, and soon that will be done as well, since I'm still having 7 liters of Full-sysnthetic 5W40 from my previous car Smile
But that will be a different topic...

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Post by HighlyJetted Tue May 06, 2014 8:53 pm

Getting all the air out of a hijet is the top priotity and the engine layout makes it different to any other car out there.
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Post by JohanNL Tue May 06, 2014 9:00 pm

Is that simply because of the engine, or is the whole cooling system poor design?
I mean, if it would be "simply" a shitty designed original radiator, we could replace it "easily"..
But probably the engine's fault..

Tomorrow I hope I can work a bit on it.. Family needs me, while all I want is work on the van Razz

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Post by HighlyJetted Tue May 06, 2014 9:17 pm

The coolant system has to go under the footwells before it goes to the radiator.

Same problems you get with MR2 and other rear engined cars.

Except on a hijet the heater matrix is higher than everything.

Plus hijet were cheaply manufactured by out penny pinching bodger friends in europe Wink
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Post by HighlyJetted Tue May 06, 2014 9:20 pm

Those two metal pipes under the footwell have been the cause of about 60% of the hijets I've fixed, they rot badly because the coolant doesn't get changed and I think they were poorly coated.
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Post by elfin girl Wed May 07, 2014 5:30 pm

the the main thing i noticed about your description of what you did was you said the clear plastic tank was full of water, that is more likely to mean the water has been prurged from the cooling system, and is now in the the plastic tank and not in the system, if pipes and rad were cold that would indicate no water in those areas too. you need to check under the cap on the pipe near the plastic tank to check levels (when cold!)
good luck with it all, hope its not too serious
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Post by JohanNL Wed May 07, 2014 9:46 pm

Thanks a lot for your comment daisydon.
I checked and that was empty, could fill up a liter or so.
After doing that I started the engine and I left it running for a bit, noticing that the level dropped in there again, and filled it up till full again, always little sips.
Now when even the heating was working good again, I kept on filling it up like this until it wouldn't drop anymore.
Then I squeezed the lower hose slowly, and released it quickly so it would "suck in" coolant, and push out air.
Kept on doing that, topped it up bit by bit, and all together I think 1,5 liters went in.

Happy to see that it was already on the pink/red coolant, G12+, which I also bought.

For now I will leave it like this, and see what happens.
The heating is working, the fan is kicking in in time, and the radiator gets nice and warm.

So in the end I didn't replace the thermostat yet, because first I wanted to see if topping up would do the trick and for now it did.

Sooner or later I will do some maintenance like filters, belts, gaskets, fluids and that kind of stuff, but for now, hands off..

Thanks for now, I will keep you all updated!
Hopefully not tomorrow  Exclamation 

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Post by elfin girl Thu May 08, 2014 8:10 pm

yayyy, i had usefull info to give!
make sure you have a spare bottle or two of water at all times now, and keep a close eye on the levels and temp, you might be lucky and find you have a leak and thats why the water level had dropped, and then even more lucky if you found the problem quick enough to not cause hg problems :-)
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Post by JohanNL Fri May 09, 2014 7:04 pm

Few hundred km's have past since filling it up, and no problems for now.
Haven't checked the levels yet, but I will tomorrow.
Coolant and oil are always with me, just to be able to help myself.

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Post by HighlyJetted Fri May 09, 2014 10:33 pm

The one I drive daily overheated once on a journey, temp gauge shot up to max but then after a minute came back down.

Then never lost a drop of water, did about 3,000 miles. Didn't think any more of it Wink

Then one day on my back from a long journey the needle shot up, but it would not come back down. Hadn't lost any water but the radiator was cold.

I decided to get it towed back home. When I got home I took the thermostat out to find it had stuck closed. I replace the thermostat.

Now I've done about 18,000 miles in it without overheating..... so far!!!

Those Italiano bodgers put crap thermostats in these Hijet at the factory.
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Post by Guest Sat May 10, 2014 12:32 am

Talking of Metal Coolant Pipes with the  Radcap Filler on it I have sold SIX of them this year. Got one going out on Monday to Kent. That leaves me with only one Strangled Octopus Pipe left to sell. 

My WANTED advert has only yielded an 04 Plate Extol Van this week for £250 which was bit of a result I must say. I cant get over how nice they are to drive with Power Steering and lots of leg room too for my long legs. They just LOOK ugly but drive far nicer than a Hi-Jet. 
This one has a full Sports Stainless Exhaust System, a Tow Bar and nice Radio/CD Player and rear seats fitted too ---- from a Hi-Jet no less. Might just keep it ---- Very Happy  Rolling Eyes  Cool

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Post by HighlyJetted Sat May 10, 2014 1:18 pm

I'd be tempted to keep this Extol too. Is it a 1.3 toyota engined one?

3 of those strangled octopus pipes have gone to me!!!!
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Post by JohanNL Thu May 29, 2014 5:48 pm

Long time no hear from me..
My experiences with the "problem"..

Daily driving, short distances, 10 to 20 km's are never a problem.
Sometimes I even drive a few hundreds in a week, never a problem. Water stays at a good level in the plastic tank, and under the cap is always water in the pipe.
Always checked when cold.

Problem starts when there is a long trip, like 150 km's at once.
The temperature stays nice and stable around the middle or a bit below the middle of the gauge.
Until I arrive where I have to be.. So I get off the highway, and start crossing some slow-streets and some trafficlights.. So stopping and driving.
Then the temp goes up, and the heating gets cold.
If then I check under the seat, in the tank, the tank is full till the lid.

Same happens when I get into traffic jams after short trips, of like 25 km's or more, so the engine is nice and warm..
If I get into traffic jams, the coolant stays at a nice level for a long time.. Until all of a sudden there is a moment when it rises.. You hear the fan trying its best to keep it low but unsuccesfull..
If I turn on the blower then, first it will be cold, but all of a sudden it gets warm, and the fan also kicks in again.. Together doing their job in making the temp drop to normal levels.

When reading my own sh*t here now.. I have a feeling that it's a sticky thermostat, which I still didn't replace..

BUT, there is my question, how does that overflow-tank stuff work?
When does the system overflow to that tank, and what is supposed to happen later with that coolant, should it go back to the system, or how does that work?

Seems I'm not loosing any coolant, only to the overflow-tank.. The amount I can always top-up is nothing more that the amount from MAX till the lid of that tank..

Because if it's supposed to work like that the coolant should go back to the system, then probably that cap is simply not working..

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Post by JohanNL Sun Aug 10, 2014 2:49 pm

And the cap indeed was bad. With a new cap fitted, there is a little bit of pressure on the system. It stays on a good level, and it doesn't tend to overheat.

So my sollution was simply a new cap.

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Post by HighlyJetted Sun Aug 10, 2014 5:18 pm

Your description is the typical example:-

Drive down a motorway for 2 hours - no problem - then hit stop start traffic and it over heats.

Or your going down a main road, until you hit a town, slow traffic and it overheats.



The tank is an expansion tank - when the water in the system gets above 0.9 bar, it vents the excess fluid into the tank. When it cools back down it draws it back in.

A new cap will help by alot.

But the question is, do you get an air gap under the metal cap after driving and cooling down?
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Post by JohanNL Mon Aug 11, 2014 10:59 pm

For a few days in a row, I checked it in the morning, and then there was no air, even water till the neck and the expansiontank was at normal level.
Today, drove it in a lot of slow traffic for a long time, and the needle went to around half the gauge. While driving it stays a bit below that.
So, needle halfway, and a bit later I was where I needed to be, stopped the van, and just to check, I saw that the expansion tank was sort of full.
Closes everything, did what I had to do, and like a small hour later I started driving again.
Didn't check anything though.
A few km's of slow traffic again, and then I saw that the needle was going up again..!
Stopped the van, and checked:
Expansion tank was full, and under the cap, which I could open pretty safely, was no water.
Could fill up the amount which went to the tank, and could drive again.

Is it possible btw, that I hear air getting in to the system while turning off the engine, sounds come from like underneath the das/front of the van.

My thought is:
If I drive the van till it's warm, and drive it again, while it didn't have the chance to cool down, coolant hasn't gone back yet, maybe even air got in.
Because when I drive it till it's warm, and give it a night to cool down, all the coolant is nicely back in the system and expansiontank to a normal level..

Now while I think of it, I indeed only had overheating problems after driving it for a while, stopping at let's say a gasstation (short stop) and then driving again.
While if I let it cool down, I never have any problems..

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Post by JohanNL Thu Aug 14, 2014 2:18 pm

Again, 2 days in a row, after a night of cooling down, the coolant under the cap is max, and in the overflow tank also on the correct level.
Is is better to keep it a bit below MAX in the overflow tank? Or is right on the line simply fine.?

Curious about my trip in 2 days, then there will be some hot-start moments again, so the coolant won't get the chance to cool down and get back to the system before I start it again.

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