OVERHEATING.... WELL NOT IF I KEEP MOVING.
2 posters
Page 1 of 1
OVERHEATING.... WELL NOT IF I KEEP MOVING.
Hello,
I bought her just two months back and was delighted the radiator fan cut in OK when stuck in traffic especially after reading some of the posts here.
However two days ago while stuck in a jam the fan didn't cut in and the temp gauge got very close to the max before we got moving again.
So my symptoms are:-
1.. Temp gauge stays around normal all the while I'm moving. Only little increase on a long hill then cools back to normal, as expected with a good working thermostat.
2.. With hot engine after a long run it takes a good 5 minutes to slowly creep up to max.. The cab heater then is unable to cool her down..
3.. There is water in the expansion tank and when cold I removed the filler cap and the pipe is full of clean coolant.
So... I think the water flow is OK as it's fine when moving, no air locks or blocks...
I'm sure my fault is electrical.... I could put 12v on the fan motor to see if that runs and/or short the thermo sensor... I guess we are now getting to my actual question.... pause for breath....
I can see what I think is the sensor under the passengers seat in the underside of a metal pipe.. It has just two leads.... I assume the temperature gauge sensor would have three looking at the wiring diagram....
I don't want to short the wrong thing.....
Any advice will be much appreciated.
Cheers Paul.
ps.. it's a 2004 1300 Hijet EFI pickup (with a Romahome on the back)
I bought her just two months back and was delighted the radiator fan cut in OK when stuck in traffic especially after reading some of the posts here.
However two days ago while stuck in a jam the fan didn't cut in and the temp gauge got very close to the max before we got moving again.
So my symptoms are:-
1.. Temp gauge stays around normal all the while I'm moving. Only little increase on a long hill then cools back to normal, as expected with a good working thermostat.
2.. With hot engine after a long run it takes a good 5 minutes to slowly creep up to max.. The cab heater then is unable to cool her down..
3.. There is water in the expansion tank and when cold I removed the filler cap and the pipe is full of clean coolant.
So... I think the water flow is OK as it's fine when moving, no air locks or blocks...
I'm sure my fault is electrical.... I could put 12v on the fan motor to see if that runs and/or short the thermo sensor... I guess we are now getting to my actual question.... pause for breath....
I can see what I think is the sensor under the passengers seat in the underside of a metal pipe.. It has just two leads.... I assume the temperature gauge sensor would have three looking at the wiring diagram....
I don't want to short the wrong thing.....
Any advice will be much appreciated.
Cheers Paul.
ps.. it's a 2004 1300 Hijet EFI pickup (with a Romahome on the back)
dripa- Clubman
- Posts : 20
Join date : 2013-06-24
Re: OVERHEATING.... WELL NOT IF I KEEP MOVING.
The test is this:-
Next time it is overheating - e.g. above 2/3 of the way up the gauge - get out of the van and feel the pipes at the bottom of the radiator, and flip the grill down and see if the radiator is cold.
If the pipes/radiator are not "bloody fricking" hot, then something is wrong. I'd go with thermostat first as it cheap and a common cause of stopping coolant flow (thus the cold radiator)
That sensor in the metal pipe is the fan turn on switch - so if the water going past it isn't upto 95 degrees then the fan will not kick in. Simple as that. Even if the fan did kick in, if the water in the radiator isn't hot then whats it going to do?!!!
The temp sensor is in the back face of the cylinder head - but I would say yours is working as the gauge sounds pretty realistic.
When you lift the metal coolant cap off the top pipe, is it 100% and I mean right up to the neck with water? If you have an air gap, then that means there is something wrong with it.
Next time it is overheating - e.g. above 2/3 of the way up the gauge - get out of the van and feel the pipes at the bottom of the radiator, and flip the grill down and see if the radiator is cold.
If the pipes/radiator are not "bloody fricking" hot, then something is wrong. I'd go with thermostat first as it cheap and a common cause of stopping coolant flow (thus the cold radiator)
That sensor in the metal pipe is the fan turn on switch - so if the water going past it isn't upto 95 degrees then the fan will not kick in. Simple as that. Even if the fan did kick in, if the water in the radiator isn't hot then whats it going to do?!!!
The temp sensor is in the back face of the cylinder head - but I would say yours is working as the gauge sounds pretty realistic.
When you lift the metal coolant cap off the top pipe, is it 100% and I mean right up to the neck with water? If you have an air gap, then that means there is something wrong with it.
Thanks
Thanks HighlyJetted for your reply...
Sounds like a useful set of tests.... I'll have a play Saturday morning and post my findings here...
Cheers Paul
Sounds like a useful set of tests.... I'll have a play Saturday morning and post my findings here...
Cheers Paul
dripa- Clubman
- Posts : 20
Join date : 2013-06-24
Lucky
How lucky am I...
It was just one of the wires going to the temp sensor corroded and broken off.. I quick solder job and I'm back on the road..
Both bottom rad pipes and the rad itself nice and hot. The fan cuts in in out as it did before..
Thanks for your advice Highly Jetted..
Paul
It was just one of the wires going to the temp sensor corroded and broken off.. I quick solder job and I'm back on the road..
Both bottom rad pipes and the rad itself nice and hot. The fan cuts in in out as it did before..
Thanks for your advice Highly Jetted..
Paul
dripa- Clubman
- Posts : 20
Join date : 2013-06-24
Re: OVERHEATING.... WELL NOT IF I KEEP MOVING.
It all looks OK... Did a 90 mile run yesterday and the fan cut in when stopped for more than a few minutes, ran for 15 seconds then off for a minutes or so...
I think that is a good fix.
I have a couple of other questions but I guess it's best to start new threads...
Thanks again Highly Jetted for you advice..
Thats at least one beer I owe you...
Cheers Paul
I think that is a good fix.
I have a couple of other questions but I guess it's best to start new threads...
Thanks again Highly Jetted for you advice..
Thats at least one beer I owe you...
Cheers Paul
dripa- Clubman
- Posts : 20
Join date : 2013-06-24
Re: OVERHEATING.... WELL NOT IF I KEEP MOVING.
Ah....
I've already started another with topic "low tick over and die when cold".....
Cheers..
I've already started another with topic "low tick over and die when cold".....
Cheers..
dripa- Clubman
- Posts : 20
Join date : 2013-06-24
Similar topics
» reasons why my hijet was over heating, 1... 2... 3... 4... and more!
» Van Overheating
» Overheating Solved
» ANOTHER OVERHEATING HI JET PLEASE HELP!!
» Another one for the overheating club..
» Van Overheating
» Overheating Solved
» ANOTHER OVERHEATING HI JET PLEASE HELP!!
» Another one for the overheating club..
Page 1 of 1
Permissions in this forum:
You cannot reply to topics in this forum